The Fruity facet

The fruity facet is one of the many facets that can dress a perfume.
Fragrances with a fruity facet are numerous and appreciated, in particular because they appeal to the olfactory heritage linked to childhood.

The facets in the architecture of a perfume 

To understand what a facet is, it is important to know how a perfume is composed. 

Perfumes are classified by olfactory families, according to the classification imposed by the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP). Here are the 6 olfactory families that exist :

            Each fragrance has an architecture of 5 to 10 olfactory components that create the accord, just like a chord in music. The main accord will define the main theme of the perfume, which in a way is its soul. Each main theme, such as the woody, floral or hesperidic, can be dressed with one or several facets by the perfumer-creator in order to complexify the architecture of the fragrance.

            Definition of the fruity facet

            The fruity facet can be associated with all the olfactory families named above.
            Fruity notes are very popular and highly prized in today's perfumery. Indeed, they connote childhood and can be "regressive". They can be reminiscent of our childhood sweets and pastries, for example, and create attachment to the scent almost immediately.

            The fruity notes can be orchestrated in a fresh and subtle way. In this case, they will be worked in an unsweetened way to accompany, for example, citrus fruits or fresh flowers in the fragrance. On the other hand, fruity notes highlight a gourmand signature.

            The fruity facet can be mischievous, refined and strongly present in the heart notes. However, the juicy, watery fruit will act more as top notes.
            Moreover, you should not confuse fruity notes with citrus notes (cf. The citrus facet).

             

             

            The fruity facet on the perfumer's organ 

            It is important to know that there are very few natural fruity notes, but fortunately, synthetic products allow the perfumer to increase the possibilities of creation.

            In general, nearly 1000 raw materials (both natural and synthetic) are placed on the perfumer's organ (a piece of furniture that allows the professional to store and classify his bottles of essential oils). There are a total of nearly 1000 natural and 3000 synthetic raw materials available.

            Recently, it has become possible to find natural, often expensive, fruity notes, such as pear, apple or even natural frambinone in the form of isolates (substances obtained after the extraction of molecules by fractional distillation and do not come from the material in question). Fresh and fruity notes like pineapple, watermelon or melon, are frequently used in perfumes for men..

            Let us recall that without the discovery of these fruity notes, there would not have been the superb Guerlain’s perfume Mitsouko that has the aldehyde molecule C14, a peach note.

            The subfamilies of fruity notes

            Here are the different subfamilies of existing fruity notes:

            • Red fruits

            Among the red fruits there are raspberry (reproduced with frambinone in synthesis and as a natural isolate), strawberry (C16), cherry (created with the association of strawberry and almond), wild strawberry (made from C16 and orange blossom), blackcurrant and blackcurrant bud (used naturally) as well as blueberry and blackberry.

            • Yellow fruits

            In the subfamily of yellow fruits, there are peach (C14), plum (created with the base of prunol or prunella), apricot (used in composition with osmanthus, a flower giving an apricot and leathery note).

            • Exotic fruits

            The exotic fruits used in perfumery are coconut (C16) that can be used naturally, mango, pineapple (natural allyl isolates exist to illustrate pineapple), banana (natural amyl isolates exist to illustrate banana), and passion fruit ( can be used naturally).

            • Watery fruits

            The two possible watery fruits in fruity notes are melon and watermelon.

            • Juicy fruits

            Among the juicy fruits, there are pear and apple (both naturally occurring), lychee (built with notes around the rose and the dimethyl sulfide molecule), and kiwi.

            • Other fruits

            Fig is another fruit used as a fruity note. It is created from a chord composed of green notes, stemone, coconut, cedar and sandalwood.

            Some other raw materials, that are not fruits, can still give fruity facets. This is, for example, the case of tagetes, davana, osmanthus with its apricot note, resin and fir balsam.

            Tips from perfumers for your desserts

            To embellish your desserts, take some strawberries and pour drops of orange blossom. The taste will immediately change to a wild strawberry scent. 

            Here are some other molecules that can bring a fruity note:

            • Allyl Amyl Glycolate, Allyl Caproate: pineapple
            • Ethyl acetate: banana note
            • Verdox, ethyl acetylacetate: apple 
            • Damascone Alpha: apple 
            • Base De berry red fruits, mango (present in Angel by Mugler)
            • Citroasis and blackcurrant base: blackcurrant 
            • Veloutone : fruity musk

              The perfumes with fruity facet

              The list of the perfumes with fruity facets is very long. Here are some references: 

              • J'Adore Dior: pear
              • Chance Chanel: quince
              • Petite Chérie Goutal : pear
              • Angel Mugler: exotic fruits
              • Trésor Lancôme: fishing
              • Guerlain Little Black Dress: cherry
              • Coco Fizz Guerlain: coconut
              • Passiflora Guerlain: passion fruit
              • Jeanne Lanvin : raspberry
              • Insolence Guerlain: wild strawberry
              • Nahéma Guerlain: fishing
              • Promenade des Anglais Guerlain: figs 
              • Kiss of Russia Guerlain: cranberry
              • Mitsouko Guerlain : fishing
              • Daisy Marc Jacobs: apple
              • Lolita Lempicka : raspberry
              • Black XS Paco Rabanne: redcurrant
              • Because it's you Armani : raspberry
              • Euphoria Calvin Klein: peach and passion fruit
              • Woman Rochas : plum
              • Yvresse Saint Laurent : plum
              • Live irresistible Givenchy: pineapple and passion fruit
              • Lost Cherry Tom Ford
              • Philosykos Diptyque: fig 
              • Ombre dans l'Eau Diptyque: blackcurrant
              • First fig tree L'Artisan Parfumeur : fig
              • Mûre et Musc L'Artisan Parfumeur : blackberry and Musk
              • Yes I Am Pink First Candy Cacharel: raspberry
              • Bana Banana L'Artisan Parfumeur: banana
              • Osmanthus The Different Company: osmanthus
              • Osmanthus Yunnan Hermes
              • Osmanthus Forbidden Perfume of Empire: osmanthus
              • Nina Nina Ricci : fishing
              • Mandarino Di Amalfi Tom Ford: fig
              • Un jardin Après La Mousson Hermès: Watermelon
              • Un jardin en Méditerranée Hermès: fig 

              Sylvaine Delacourte fragrance with a fruity facet

              Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.