The Solar facet
The solar accord, also known as the sunny note, is an accord that dresses an olfactory family, it particularly dresses the floral, vanilla and oriental family (cf. Lilylang from the Musk Collection and Vanori Collection of Sylvaine Delacourte's Vanilla Collection).
An olfactory reference story
In Europe, the olfactory reference associated with sunny notes is L'Oréal's L'Ambre solaire, built around benzyl salicylates, while in the United States, the reference is Hawaiian Tropic sunscreen, whose very opulent scent is built around coconut notes (cf. The fruity, coconut note).
The secret of the sunny note: benzyl salicylates
L'Oréal in its Sun Amber, used benzyl salicylate for its sun filter properties. In the course of its research, the company eventually developed much more effective sun filters and removed the old filter. The consequence was a significant drop in sales of Sun Amber. The formula was then reworked to reintegrate the famous benzyl salicylate, no longer as a sun filter but for its olfactory effect, which had become a sun reference for the consumer. In a word, it had to smell like sand or sun-warmed skin... a holiday, if possible!
The solar facet and solar notes
There are both natural and synthetic materials that can create this "solar" effect in a perfume.
- Salicylates
These are synthetic molecules: benzyl amyl and cis 3 hexenyl.
- Bergamot, mandarin
Bergamot, mandarin and citrus fruits in general are reminiscent of sunshine and the freshness of Mediterranean countries, especially Calabria, they are almost indispensable notes to underline the solar accord.
- Marine notes
These are synthetic notes, also called aquatic notes, are obtained from the calone, or helional.
- Jasmine
The Grandiflora jasmine usually comes from Grasse, Egypt, India or Italy. Sambac jasmine comes from India and has a more "orange and solar" smell. To harvest jasmine, the pickers have to get up very early. The most skilful can pick up 500 to 700 kg of flowers per hour. To obtain 1kg of flowers you need 10,000 flowers.
- Tuberose
Tuberose is exotic and narcotic, it is found in southern India and Egypt. It gives an intense side to the solar facet. In India, it is harvested every morning from May to December. The name of this flower, in Hindi, means "night fragrance". Indeed, it decorates the windows, and the bridal room during the wedding ceremony. For the first three days, the bride and groom don't see each other. They have to wait until the fourth day to get close. Then the tuberose enters the scene to calm the anxiety of the newlyweds and stimulate pleasure. Officially erotic, the tuberose is with jasmine, the flower of love.
- Ylang ylang
The ylang ylang flower comes from a tree, and is shaped like a large dishevelled star. For Indonesians, it is the "flower of flowers", which is also the meaning of its name. Very exotic, the flower displays an exuberant and extroverted nature. From the volcanoes in Madagascar or Mayotte, it has inherited an explosive floral side that gives a lot of color to the fragrances. It is harvested when the soft green flower has turned yellow, a sign that it has reached its olfactory maturity.
Its scent is halfway between jasmine and tuberose. The ylang ylang with its creamy, carnal notes is reminiscent of solar monoi. It has a sensual, lustful and intoxicating dimension, as well as being wild and narcotic (cf. Sylvaine Delacourte's Lilylang from Musk Collection, a solar musk with notes of tuberose, jasmine and ylang ylang on a base of salicylated vanilla, with a smile (cf. Testing a perfume, The olfactive pyramid) bright and sparkling brought by lime). It is the flower that best illustrates the solar facet.
- Frangipani flower
The frangipani flower is a sacred flower in India whose abundant bloom is called by fervent prayers. Like sambac jasmine, the whiteness of the flower symbolizes the purity of the soul. This sacred and delicate flower does not deliver its perfume. Perfumers must use a "laboratory flower", by proceeding to "reconstitution" (cf. How to preserve a perfume?), that is, a formula integrating ten or so components. (cf. Vanilla Collection, Vanori by Sylvaine Delacourte, solar vanilla with notes of frangipani, salicyclées of warm sand, benzoin resin and vanilla, with a grapefruit smile on top).
- Tiare flower
The tiaré is a tropical shrub on which grows the white tiaré flower, the national symbol of Tahiti. It is now available as a natural product, but it is used sparingly, as its odour is in the end quite disappointing, as it is far from being faithful to the original sweet and intoxicating smell of the flower.
- Pittosporum
This little-known flower, which comes from a shrub and is also called "Australian laurel", is native to southern China, Korea and Japan. It is also found in the Mediterranean region, including towards Grasse, and in Croatia. This shrub with dark green and shiny foliage can reach 4 to 5 meters. Pittosporum flowers in May-June. The flowers are then white to yellow. Its scent lies between orange blossom and jasmine. Here again, the perfumer must reproduce the scent with the help of a formula.
- Mimosa
Mimosa absolute is a natural product obtained by the technique of extraction with volatile solvents from the yellow balls of mimosa. But these small golden flowers are often treated with mimosa leaves. This is why, the mimosa absolute, despite its powdery, floral and rich scent, also has a green tonality due to the presence of the leaves.
- Gardenia
The gardenia is a white flower that does not deliver its soul, similar to the frangipani flower and the pittosporum. Its creamy and delicious smell has a very slight fresh mushroom facet, and an added "coconut" facet. The perfumer will reconstitute the perfume with natural and synthetic ingredients (cf. How to preserve a perfume?).
- Fool
The fool is a flower close to the gardenia. It is very appreciated and found in the Middle East. It must also be reconstituted in the laboratory by the perfumer.
- Magnolia tree
Native to China, magnolia has an interesting and very singular scent. This flower is very little used in perfumery because its extract does not have the same scent as the plant but can help to create a solar effect and it will not be the determining element.
- Immortal
Immortal flower is sometimes forgotten in the sunny side of raw materials, but it evokes holidays at the seaside, the beach and the scent of Corsican maquis. Its scent is natural, it is a spicy flower that is rarely used in perfumery, as it is difficult to work with (cf. Helicriss from Musk Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte, a musk married to immortal, spices, frankincense, tonka bean and patchouli leaves.
- The fruity note: coconut
It also evokes holidays in the tropics through memories of exotic cocktails, such as pina colada. In perfumery, it is worked from a molecule, aldehyde C18, and also exists as a natural product. This note is the essential note for the solar facet, but the dosage must be subtle.
Exotic fruity scents such as mango, pineapple, banana are possible thanks to synthesis.
Some examples of solar perfumes
- Mayotte (Mahora) Guerlain
- Quand vient l’été Guerlain
- Ylang vanille Guerlain
- Mimosa Tiaré Aqua Allegoria Guerlain
- Coco Fizz, Aqua Allegoria Guerlain
- Parfum Terracotta Guerlain
- L’Instant de Guerlain (cf. Amber facet)
- Cruel Gardenia Guerlain
- Dune Dior
- Ombre bleue Jean-Charles Brosseau
- L’eau ensoleillante Clarins
- Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder
- Sable Goutal
- Vanille Galante Hermès
- L Lolita Lempicka
- Moheli Dytique
- Songes Annick Goutal
- Bronze Goddess Estée Lauder
- Replica (beach walk) Martin Margiela
- Ylang Le Labo
- Sabbia Bianca Profumum Roma
- Soleil Blanc Tom Ford
- Lilylang Sylvaine Delacourte
- Vanori Sylvaine Delacourte
Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musks and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.
More articles
The Spicy facet
In perfumery fragrances are classified into categories, called “families” (according to the classification of the French Perfume Committee - CFP). They are six of them: The citrus family The floral family The amber family The chypre family The woody family The fougère family Olfactive family is determined by its accord, or main theme, made up of 5 to 10 different components, and giving all its soul to the fragrance. In addition, each main theme, or family, can be dressed with one or more olfactive facets. The more perfume is faceted, the more complex it will be.The spicy facet can dress all the families listed above.
The Powdery facet
In order to understand what a facet is, it is important to know that a perfume has an architecture, it is built around several components (between 5 and 10). These different scents interact with each other to form an accord, as in music. The main accord, also known as the main theme of a perfume, will give the fragrance its full dimension and define its olfactory family. Perfumes are classified (according to the CFP - Comité Français du Parfum) into six distinct olfactory families: The chypre family The hesperidae (citrus) family The floral family The oriental or amber family The woody family The ferns family In addition, the main accord may be dressed in olfactory facets. The more facets there are, the more complex the perfume will be. The powdery facet is one of the olfactory facets used to dress a perfume.
The Marine facet
To understand what a facet is, it is important to know that a perfume has a precise architecture, it is structured from several components, usually between 5 and 10, that create an accord. The main theme of the fragrance will be given by the main accord, which could be compared to the soul of the fragrance. The more facets are in a perfume, the more complex it will be.
The Green facet
We often talk about the soul of a perfume when we talk about its main accord. Many components, from 5 to 10, build up the architecture of a perfume. The assembly of these different components defines the main theme of a perfume. This accord is enriched by other notes, which are the facets of the perfume. Thanks to them, the more complex perfume arouses a wider range of emotions. 6 olfactory families defined by the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP) allow to classify perfumes according to categories: The chypre family The hesperidae (citrus) family The floral family The oriental or amber family The woody family The ferns family Each main theme or accord can be dressed in one or more facets. The green facet can be used to dress each of these 6 families.
The Aromatic facet
In music, you can create a chord with a combination of several notes to make a unique sound. In perfumery, you can do this too by blending together several notes and ingredients together to create a distinct fragrance. This is called an accord. You can dress the accord with several facets. The more facets there are, the more complex the architecture of the perfume is. In order to find its way around, the Comité Français du Parfum classifies perfumes according to their olfactory family.
The Fruity facet
The fruity facet is one of the many facets that can dress a perfume. Fragrances with a fruity facet are numerous and appreciated, in particular because they appeal to the olfactory heritage linked to childhood.
The Woody facet
A perfume has an architecture and is built around a main accord. It is an assembly of components that constitutes its main theme and will be its message. According to the CFP (Comité Français du Parfum), there are 6 main themes, also called olfactory families: Citrus or hesperide family Floral family Amber or oriental family Chypre family Woody family Ferns family
The Amber facet
The oriental facet is undoubtedly a major accord of perfumery. It can be dressed with several other facets and its complexity is equal to its richness.
The Aldehyde facet
In music, you can create a chord with a combination of several notes to make a unique sound. In perfumery, you can do this too by blending together several notes and ingredients together to create a distinct fragrance. This is called an accord. You can dress the accord with several facets. The more facets there are, the more complex the architecture of the perfume is. In order to find its way around, the Comité Français du Parfum classifies perfumes according to their olfactory family.
The Leather facet
The leather facet is particularly appreciated by perfume connoisseurs. This article will familiarize you with this emblematic facet. Discover its history, definition, notes, molecules and iconic fragrances.
The Gourmand facet
Before defining the gourmand facet, it is important to understand the complex architecture of a perfume. A fragrance is built around 5 to 10 different components that together becomes an accord. The main accord of the fragrance can be dressed with several facets. The more facets a perfume has, the more complex it will be. Fragrances are also divided into 6 olfactory families (citrus, floral, amber or oriental, chypre, woody and fern) and into many olfactory facets, including the gourmand facet.
The Musky facet
In perfumery, the main accord is the scent created from various components (generally between 5 to 10). This accord will be the soul of a perfume and can be dressed in different facets. If there are numerous facets, the fragrance composition will be more complex.In addition, according to the regulations of the CFP (Comité Français du Parfum) fragrances are classified into 6 distinct olfactory families (hesperide family, floral family, amber or oriental family, chypre family, woody family and fern family). The musky facet, also called musky notes or white musk, can be associated with every olfactive family.
The Hesperidia or Citrus facet
Each fragrance is made up of various components that form an accord. The main accord will define the essence of the perfume, its soul, and will classify the fragrances by olfactory families (according to the Comité Français du Parfum - CFP): The chypre family The hesperidae (citrus) family The floral family The oriental or amber family The woody family The ferns family The accord, or main theme, can be dressed in several facets (the more facets there are, the greater the complexity of the perfume is), including the citrus facet.
The New Freshness facet
In perfumery, facets come to dress the main theme of the fragrance (which is defined thanks to the different accords created from the raw materials). The more facets there are, the more complex the fragrance will be. In perfumery, the new freshness facet is obtained by synthetic notes, notably dihydromyrcenol.