Sofact
C02 extraction, also known as sofact extraction, is one of the processes used in perfumery. This technique consists in extracting the essential oil contained in the product thanks to carbon dioxide in a supercritical state (fourth physical state, between liquid and gas). This innovative process is very environmentally friendly, and allows to reproduce the scent of the raw materials as precisely as possible.
Different extraction processes
Here are the different extraction processes for the raw materials used in perfumery:
- Distillation
- Extraction by volatile solvent
- Expression
- Enfleurage
- Headspace
- Extraction by C02 or sofact
Raw materials for the perfumer's organ
There are a total of 1000 natural and 3000 synthetic raw materials available. Therefore, perfumers can choose the ones they want to use according to their taste and they usually choose around 1000 (natural and synthetic). If they are independent, they will be free to choose their raw materials. However, if they work for a large company, they will be limited to the perfume organ (a piece of furniture that allows a professional to store and classify his vials of essential oils).
New materials are discovered and marketed every year, while others disappear, often due to increasingly strict legislation.
Similarly, over time, the techniques of extracting raw materials become more sophisticated and more complex.
Namely, not all perfumers have access to the noble C02 extraction method or the sofact.
What is C02 extraction, or sofact?
CO2 extraction, also known as sofact, is an extraction process carried out under high pressure, without excessive temperature loading, and without coming into contact with oxygen. The CO2 solvent, or carbon dioxide, is then in the supercritical state, i.e. in a form between the liquid and gas, which is generated at a pressure above 73 bars. The temperature is quite low (31° C), which also preserves all the molecules of the treated raw material.
The sofact technology is very innovative, but the process is quite simple. The raw material is placed in cylindrical baskets equipped with filters at both ends. These baskets are then placed in the extractor, where the C02 circulates in liquid form. The essential oil of the raw material is then dissolved in the C02. The pressure is then reduced, allowing the CO2 to recover its gaseous form. The fragrant extract is then collected in the separator, while the CO2 gas continues to flow and becomes liquid again, before being reused.
What is supercritical CO2 gas?
Carbon dioxide or CO2 exists in 3 forms: solid, liquid and gaseous. The supercritical state of CO2 is actually the fourth state in which the gaseous and liquid states merge due to pressure and heating.
Other uses of the sofact or extraction by C02
This method is also used in the food industry to decaffeinate coffee, to de-nicotinate tobacco or to process hops into beer.
What are the advantages of CO2, or sofact extraction?
This extraction technique offers many benefits in terms of respect for the environment, the raw material and the quality of the scent obtained.
The raw material is treated with respect
Supercritical CO2 or sofact extraction is the most recent extraction process, and the one that allows to reproduce a scent as close as possible to the real smell of the raw material.
It is a clean and gentle modern technology, used by solvent. The latter heats up very little and leaves no trace of the product. This method is particularly effective for all low-volatile materials, such as spices.
The special feature of the absolutes created is that they have remarkable olfactory qualities. Indeed, the perfumed products obtained are very faithful to the scent of the raw materials used in perfumery. However, they are also more expensive, as products treated with C02 are considered luxurious.
Environmentally friendly technique
Furthermore, C02 is a solvent recognised as non-hazardous and non-flammable, unlike hexane. It is therefore much safer to use. This gas is also recyclable and non-polluting, and therefore environmentally friendly (it could be described as a "green solvent"). It does not generate any greenhouse gases.
A new way of extracting odorous molecules
Given the growing interest in more natural and environmentally friendly products and due to strict environmental regulations, this innovative extraction technique is developing rapidly.
State-of-the-art technology in all areas
The sofact or CO2 extraction technique is an advanced technique used to process raw materials for perfumery, but it is intended to be used more and more for food and medicine.
Conclusion
The supercritical C02 extraction, or sofact, is a very ecological technique, that allows the rediscovery of classic perfumery products. To see the effects of this method, here is an interesting experiment to conduct: smell, for example, an absolute rose or a pink berry treated with a classic volatile solvent (hexane or benzene), then compare this scent with these same raw materials, treated with C02. In this way, you will be able to notice how much this technique preserves the original smell of the raw material: it is a real delight! The only drawback is, of course, its cost, which is more expensive.
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Head Spaces or nature print
Fragrances are created from natural or synthetic raw materials. Natural raw materials can be extracted in several ways. Headspace is one of them (for flower only). This technique aims to reconstitute the natural flower scent, which could not be obtained in the form of an essential oil.
Distillation
Distillation is one of the extraction processes used in perfumery. This technique consists of capturing essential oil from flowers or plants using water vapour. This very old method is still used nowadays.
Extraction by volatile solvents in perfumery
Volatile solvent extraction is one of the extraction processes used in perfumery. It consists of dissolving the perfume of the plant in a solvent which is then evaporated. This method makes it possible to obtain very noble and rich products.
Expression
In perfumery, raw materials can be extracted in different ways. Expression is one of the extraction processes. This technique, which is quite old, is used to extract the essence contained in the peel of citrus fruits.
Enfleurage
Enfleurage used to be a perfume manufacturing technique that consisted of immersing raw materials in a fatty substance to absorb the scents. There were two different types of enfleurage: hot and cold enfleurage. This technique was widely used in the past but is now largely abandoned.
The synthetic molecules
Modern perfumery was born at the end of the 19th century. At that time, perfumers began to incorporate synthetic ingredients into their formulas, which amplified the palette of the professional, offering them more creativity. It also allows for more abstract olfactory forms. Today, chemists are able to isolate aromatic compounds from a natural raw material, purify them and obtain the molecular structure of the raw material. Once this structure is identified, the specialist will be able to use organic chemistry to recompose the molecules. As pictorial art has acquired a new dimension with synthetic dyes, perfumery has reached new heights and has allowed new scents with synthetic products.