Enfleurage

Enfleurage used to be a perfume manufacturing technique that consisted of immersing raw materials in a fatty substance to absorb the scents. There were two different types of enfleurage: hot and cold enfleurage. This technique was widely used in the past but is now largely abandoned.

Raw material extraction processes

Here are the different extraction processes of raw materials that exist in perfumery:

 

History of enfleurage 

Already practised in ancient times, the enfleurage technique has been in common use since the beginning of the 18th century. At that time, particularly fragile materials could not be treated by distillation and were therefore extracted by cold or hot enfleurage.

This extraction technique was developed in Grasse, in the South of France, but it was abandoned around the 1930s, as soon as the volatile solvent extraction process became reliable.

 

 

What is enfleurage?

Enfleurage can be carried out either cold or hot, depending on the materials being treated.

  • Cold enfleurage 

This extraction process is used for jasmine, daffodil, or tuberose, flowers that are too fragile to be heated. It consisted of spreading a layer of animal fat at room temperature on a plate surrounded by a wooden frame. Flowers should not be exposed to high temperatures not to change their fragrance.

The flowers are first sorted to keep only the freshest of them, then placed manually, one by one, on the fat for about 24 hours. Then fat absorbs their scents. The operation has to be repeated several times, until the fat is saturated with the scent of the flowers, which are then removed by hand. 

At the end of the process, the fat is collected with a spatula and then washed with alcohol in threshing machines. This makes it possible to separate it from the odorous molecules and obtain a precious "ointment absolute” after evaporation.

  • Hot enfleurage 

Also known as "maceration", this process makes it possible to infuse the more resistant flowers or other vegetables in oils and fats made up of 75% pork and 25% beef, and heat in a water bath between 40 and 60 degrees.

The flowers are stirred, using a wooden spatula, in the heated fat for two hours. The flowers are infused for at least 24 hours and then replaced with fresh ones. The fat, which can also be heated by the sun's heat, is then recovered by draining through large strainers and filtered through tissue wipes. The product is then washed with alcohol in the threshing machines.

These materials make it possible to obtain very rich and elegant products, reserved for exceptional compositions. Back then, hot enfleurage was used for the May rose, orange blossom and mimosa. 

 

Disadvantages of the enfleurage technique

Enfleurage, whether hot or cold, had several disadvantages, such as :

  • A low yield: 1 kg of fat could absorb 3 kg of flowers.
  • A manual technique requiring a demanding know-how, therefore qualified personnel.
  • A very long process.
  • A large number of materials (frames, threshing machines...) were required.
  • It was necessary to control the room temperature.

Moreover, this method was very labour-intensive, very expensive and therefore could not be used for classic perfumery flowers such as jasmine, tuberose, rose, mimosa or daffodil.

The final product, called "ointment absolute", was reserved for the big perfume houses. 

 

The enfleurage technique today 

This old technique was replaced by volatile solvent extraction and CO2, or sofact extraction. Enfleurage is rarely used today. However, new enfleurage initiatives are being practised again in Grasse, particularly for tuberose.

There is still a confidential enfleurage operation in Tahiti.  It is not carried out on wooden frames as in the 18th century, but by absorbing Monoie or Tiara flowers for 10 days.

These flowers are treated with coconut oil to produce Monoï de Tahiti appellation d'origine contrôlée. This oil, used for the body and hair is still part of local customs and rituals. The real Monoï can be recognised by the flower thiara inside the bottle.
The traditional method, sold only in Tahiti, consists of mixing coconut oil with the tiare flowers and also with a very surprising ingredient: the abdomen of Bernard L'Hermite, in order to accelerate the fermentation of the mixture. This mixture is then placed in the sun, in the open air. 

The traditional monoi oil cannot be sold for export due to current regulations.

 

The enfleurage and the base notes 

The products obtained through enfleurage participated in the base notes, notes that evaporate slowly, allowing the perfume to consolidate and last for a long time.

Indeed, it is important to know that, even if perfumes evoke poetry, dreams and emotions, they are above all based on advanced scientific and physical notions. A fragrance is a complex, sophisticated and delicate composition of notes chosen for their ephemeral or tenacious side, and which make up what is called "the olfactory pyramid".

 

The olfactory pyramid 

The architecture of a perfume is visually represented in the form of an olfactory pyramid, with the top notes (the most volatile notes, felt just after the perfume has been sprayed) being on the top of the pyramid, the heart notes in the middle and the base notes in the bottom. 

At the first sight, it is a simple and pedagogical scheme, but in reality it is much more complex, as the different notes respond to each other, intertwine, interweave and can sublimate each other.

 

Conclusion 

The enfleurage gave excellent results and produced very high quality fragrances. Unfortunately, the process, which was very expensive and complex, was largely abandoned (except for a few manufacturers who still use this process, in a traditional and confidential way). 

 

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