Distillation

Distillation is one of the extraction processes used in perfumery. This technique consists of capturing essential oil from flowers or plants using water vapour. This very old method is still used nowadays.

Raw materials on the perfumer's organ

There are a total of 1000 natural and 3000 synthetic raw materials available. Among this wide range, the perfumer usually selects 1,000 for the perfume organ (a piece of furniture that allows a professional to store and classify his vials of essential oils), among those they prefer or which will be technically indispensable for the creation of his fragrances. New materials are discovered and marketed every year, while others disappear, often due to increasingly strict legislation.

 

Different extraction processes

Here are the different extraction processes for the raw materials used in perfumery:  

 

 

History of distillation 

The extraction method by distillation has been used since ancient times. This very old process was certainly discovered by the Greeks. Indeed, distillation is carried out using a still (a large tank topped by a long curved pipe), which comes from the word "ambix", which means "vase" in ancient Greek. The Persians were also among the first to use distillation for the rose. This process was then improved in the Middle Ages, and was further perfected during the Arab civilisation, from the 8th century onwards ("alembic" comes from the Arabic "al 'inbïq", itself derived from the Greek language). Today, distillation remains the main technique in traditional perfumery. 

 

What is distillation?  

The distillation technique is used to treat certain flower petals, seeds, bark, leaves and roots. However, not all raw materials used in perfumery can be treated by distillation (they will then be treated with another extraction process. However, only certain raw materials give off their fragrance through volatile solvent extraction).

Distillation is based on the capacity of water vapour to capture essential oils. Flowers, or plants, are placed on a perforated tray, located on the upper part of the tank. If it is roses, the petals are covered with water (500 kg of roses require 1,500 litres of water), in a large tank topped by a long pipe. The mixture is then boiled. Rising vapour released is impregnated with the fragrant principles of the flowers and carries them through a coil, where a refrigeration system allows the vapour to condense. The liquid thus obtained is a mixture of essential oil (or essence), which is decanted into a vase called a "florentine" or "essencier".

Since oil cannot be mixed with water (they do not have the same density), it will remain on the surface (oil is about one-third of the final product): this is the decantation phase.

Scented water is floral water that will have to be distilled again. In the case of the rose, this water is called "rose water". It is widely used in cosmetics and sometimes in certain fragrances.

Rose (see Flowers) can be treated by distillation. This is particularly the case for the Turkish Rose or the Bulgarian Rose of the botanical quality Damascena. The Turkish Rose essence treated by distillation will act especially as top notes that are more volatile, and as heart notes, because its scent is fresher, greener and fruity, like a "lychee" or "pear" note (cf. Fruits).

More and more eaux de fleurs are claimed in the composition of a perfume. In a perfume, rose water or orange blossom water are added in the end, instead of distilled water (and not in the oily concentrate).

Eau de brout is the water that is recovered from the distillation of the petit grain. There is also the "eau de brout" absolute. It is a floral note with some animal inflections.

Flower waters can be dehydrated and then rehydrated afterwards. This makes them easier to transport and better to manage (it is a fragile product).

 

Yield of essence extracted by distillation  

4,500 kg of fresh rose petals are required to obtain 1 kg of essence by distillation. As the raw material is heated during boiling, the final result does not give exactly the same scent as a freshly picked rose. 

When using distillation technology, the final product will be called an "essence" or "essential oil".

The raw material can also be treated with a volatile solvent. In this case, the product will be called "pink absolute". In this technique, preference is given to the quality of Centifolia, which is also called the "Rose of Grasse". It will act especially as heart and base notes because its scent is rounder, sensual and richer.

Orange blossom scent is obtained thanks to these two treatments:

  • By hydrodistillation that allows to obtain the product called "Neroli".
  • By volatile solvents treatment: the final product is called "orange blossom absolute" (see Flower family).

Here are a few examples of raw materials that can be treated by distillation:

  • Ylang-ylang
  • Magnolia
  • Vetiver 
  • Patchouli
  • Mosses (see Wood) 
  • Numerous aromatic notes such as sage, lavender, mint and lavandin (see Aromatic herbs)
  • Cinnamon and other spices (see Spices)


However, jasmine and tuberose, for example, cannot be treated by hydrodistillation. Only volatile solvent extraction will be able to extract the scent of these flowers.

Distillation allows to obtain essences that will bring freshness and lightness to the perfume that will act especially in top and middle notes.

 

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

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