The masculine and feminine olfactive families

Whether they are feminine or masculine, olfactory families participate in the main theme of a perfume, in the construction of its soul. It is notably thanks to these families that we can classify a perfume. 

Here are the main olfactory families:



The chypre family

The characteristic of the perfumes of the chypre family

First of all, you should know that the classic chypre chord is made up of bergamot, jasmine, rose, patchouli, tree moss, labdanum and possibly animal notes. Then, this accord can be associated with different facets, but a chypre perfume is woody by definition. The leading chypre was created by either Guerlain or François Coty. The origin of the name chypre is not certain, either the name came from the island of Cyprus, or from the names of home perfumes from an ancient era: the Cyprus birds.

The facets of a chypre perfume 

A chypre perfume can be dressed with: 

In contemporary chypre, oak moss and rockrose labdanum have been replaced by patchouli following IFRA's ban on the use of these materials. However, oak moss can now be replaced by tree moss.

 

The hesperidee family

The citrus facet is present in almost all perfumes, it dresses the perfume in top notes, it is volatile, therefore not very tenacious, it gives the perfume a smile. It dresses all perfumes, both fragrances for men and for women. 

Of course, it is found in greater quantities in eaux de Cologne and eaux fraîches, it becomes the main theme and thus determines the family: hesperidée.

Lemon, bergamot, orange or grapefruit, citrus give the first impression of the perfume, called the smile, providing fresh and invigorating scents. 

These are notes composed of citrus fruits. Do not confuse with the fruity notes: peach, apple, pear, pineapple, red fruits that can now be found in fragrances for men (cf. Fruits).

The aromatic facet, the new freshness facet, the marine facet very often dress all the families of fragrances for men, but more particularly the citrus family.

 

 

The floral family

The floral family is certainly the richest and largest family. It is also a very popular family all over the world. The floral notes are diverse and very different from each other. You can't say "I love all flowers", as their scents are so varied, but you can realise that you particularly appreciate this or that category of flowers. The floral notes can be treated as figurative or abstract notes.

The floral notes can be found in "soliflores" or "floral bouquets". The floral notes can be found in all olfactory families and are more often found in the heart notes of a perfume.

The different categories of flowers

  • Green/spring or vegetal flowers
  • White or sensual flowers / solar flowers
  • Powdery flowers
  • Spicy flowers
  • Roses
  • Atypical flowers

 

The oriental or amber family 

In perfumery, the word "amber" does not come from the amber stone which is a fossilised resin and has absolutely no smell, as you might spontaneously think. The term "amber" probably comes from the use of ambergris in the perfumers’ compositions. This word comes from an association of raw materials that have been assembled by a perfumer, the oriental accord was created either by Coty or Guerlain. Ambergris is a natural animal note, pathological concretion of the whale’s sperm.

The oriental family is the family that was appreciated quite late by men.
Pioneers: Jicky and Habit Rouge, the first pure oriental perfume for men, by Guerlain. 

 

The classic amber or oriental accord 

The classic oriental accord is generally composed of tonka bean, vanilla, vanillin, coumarin, labdanum, patchouli. There are also resins or balms such as benzoin or incense, opopanax, myrrh. The iris note dresses it wonderfully well.

This accord can be accessorised with other facets: citrus, green, floral, spicy, aromatic, fruity, gourmet (cf. The olfactive facets). It will then be called floral oriental, for example.

They are usually very enveloping and warm perfumes, with a strong trail and generally with excellent hold.

 

The woody family

The woody note: a facet and a main theme. Each main theme or chord is often dressed in one or more facets. Thus, the more faceted the perfume, the more complex it is. 

We notice that the woody facet can also be the main theme of a perfume. This means that the woody message can be clearly felt from the beginning to the end of the fragrance. In the woody family one wood may be predominant, but it is often a blend of several woody notes.

The message is clearly woody. It can be sublimated with subtle facets: citrus, floral, fruity, spicy or vanilla, without these facets taking over the woody notes. Woody notes are reassuring, structured and nervous. Most of them act as "stakes in the composition" and give the perfume a backbone. 

The woody family is the most popular family in perfumes for men.

 

The fern family

The fougère or fern family is rather a masculin family, which is always aromatic (lavender, rosemary mint, sage). 

The leader of this family was the fragrance Fougère by the perfumer Houbigant. The style has been renewed and modernised over time.

Composition of the fougère accord

The fougère accord is composed primarily of bergamot, lavender, rose notes: geranium, vetiver, moss, tonka bean or/and coumarin. Around this fern accord, different notes can intervene in the orchestration: 

  • Top notes: you will find aromatic notes: lavender, lavandin, rosemary, thyme, clary sage, mugwort, aniseed notes, chamomile, laurel, mint notes, etc.
  • Heart notes: Pelargonium rose, geranium with a rose scent (also called rose geranium), carnation accord or rose, orange note.
  • Base notes: tonka bean or its main molecule coumarin, vetiver, tree moss, sometimes vanilla, amber or leather notes, musky notes.

 

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