The olfactive pyramid

Sylvaine Delacourte explains in detail the meaning of the olfactive pyramid and how it is generally represented in perfumery.

The orchestration of a perfume 

Let's start with a little digression on what the orchestration of a perfume is. 

There is something magical about perfume: it evokes poetry, dreams, arouses emotions in those who smells it or wears it, by telling a story. As in a poem or a symphony, it is the creator's technical mastery that allows us to embark on a real olfactive journey. 

The perfumer-creator "constructs" and "composes" his perfume: he gives it structure by orchestrating physical elements in such a scientific approach. The choice of notes, once assembled according to their physical and chemical characteristics, gives the perfume its full dimension. 


A definition of the olfactive pyramid

The architecture of a perfume is visually represented in the form of an olfactory pyramid, with the top notes being on the top of the pyramid, the heart notes in the middle and the base notes in the bottom. But in reality, each part of this pyramid represents notes that overlap and respond to each other. That is how, when a perfume is well constructed, will be possible to smell the base notes right from the start! It is then said that "the flight prepares its conclusion" (cf. Testing a perfume).

 

 

The architecture of a perfume

The olfactory pyramid allows the perfumer to architect his perfume and make it harmonious. It is used to balance the orchestration of a formula and to make the evaporation of the fragrance continuous and gradual. In this way, the perfume can deliver all its facets and the fragrance comes to life. 

The perfumer Jean Carles, who was a perfumer at Roure, who later became Givaudan, established and taught this olfactory pyramid. He classified all the notes according to their volatility (top notes have a very high volatility, heart notes a medium volatility and base notes a low volatility).


An evolutionary or linear perfume

The more natural notes are in the perfume, the more alive and evolving it is. A perfume uniquely orchestrated with a majority of synthetic products would be linear.

The ideal is to have a higher percentage of natural notes, because they are the ones that give soul, life, evolution, and surprise to a perfume!

Synthetic materials are used to bring stability, technicality, but also power and hold to the fragrance (cf. The woody facet). And of course, perfumers use them when nature refuses to give them the notes they need, like lily-of-the-valley, violet or certain dried fruits, for example (cf. How to preserve your perfume?).


Focus on the top-heart-base evolution of a perfume

It is important to know that the top-heart-base evolution is linked to the fact that the different odorous molecules that make up the perfume have different evaporation rates. This does not mean that there is an absolute truth in this area and a pre-established and structured order of evaporation, with the top notes first, followed by the heart notes and finally the base notes. In fact, it happens that all these notes evaporate more or less at the same time in a joyful mess!

For example: Guerlain's Shalimar is composed of 30% bergamot, heart notes like rose and jasmine, and vanilla as the base notes, accompanied by balsamic notes and leather, woody and animal notes.

From the top notes, it is possible to smell the vanilla notes, which are however located in the base notes. Indeed, in some fragrances, there is a form of transparency allowing to feel the base notes as early as top notes. A well-constructed perfume must have a flight that prepares well for its conclusion. Sometimes, some perfumes are interesting and attractive in the top notes, then the base notes start to disappoint and the promise fades away in the last notes.


Examples of olfactive pyramid diagrams

Here are some examples of typical olfactory pyramid diagrams, with the distribution :

  • Top notes 
  • Heart notes 
  • Base notes 


The olfactory pyramid of perfumes from fougère family
Here's a classic diagram of the olfactory pyramid for perfumes from fougère family:

  • 30% lavender or other aromatic notes (in top notes)
  • 20% geranium or rose notes (in heart notes)
  • 10% salicylated notes (in base notes)
  • 30% moss or patchouli woody notes (in base notes)
  • 10% coumarin or tonka bean notes (in base notes)

The olfactory pyramid of chypre perfumes
Here is a classic diagram of the olfactory pyramid for chypre perfumes:

  • 35% citrus (in top notes)
  • 40% floral bouquet with rose and jasmine (in heart notes)
  • 15% moss or woody notes such as patchouli (in base notes)
  • 10% musky notes or balms (in base notes)

The olfactory pyramid of oriental or amber perfumes
Here is a model of olfactory pyramid for oriental or amber perfumes:

  • 30% citrus and aromatic accord (in top notes)
  • 20% floral chord, with rose and jasmine (in heart notes)
  • 50% amber chord (with balms, resins, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean or coumarin (in base notes)

 

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musks and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.