The oriental family

Before defining the oriental family, it is important to understand the orchestration of a fragrance. All fragrances consist of an architecture of 5 to 10 components, which together form an "accord". The main accord will give the fragrance its full personality. 

This precise orchestration has made it possible to distribute fragrances according to a rigorous classification (defined by the Comité Français du Parfum - CFP), distinguishing them into olfactory families. There are 6 different olfactory families:

  1. The citrus family
  2. The floral family
  3. The amber or oriental family 
  4. The chypre family
  5. The woody family
  6. The fougère (or ferns) family

Each family can then be complexified and dressed with several olfactory facets.

 

What is the oriental or amber family?

The oriental family, also known as the "amber family", is made up of the oriental accord, which can be dressed in different facets:

The oriental family makes it possible to create oriental fragrances for both women and men, highly prized, characterized by rich and sweet raw materials.

The origin of the word "amber"

The word "amber" in perfumery does not come, as one might think, from amber stone, a fossilized resin that has absolutely no smell. The word 'amber' probably comes from the way perfumers used ambergris in their compositions. This material is of animal origin and comes from a pathological concretion of the cachalot. The animal is not killed or hurt when obtaining the ambergris and is therefore still authorized by the IFRA - International Fragrance Association. However, this sensual note is so expensive that it is now rare to find it in a perfume formulation.

The origins of the amber or oriental accord

The amber, also known as the oriental accord, was identified in Jicky (1889), which later gave Guerlain's Shalimar (1921), and in Coty's Antique Amber in 1908. It is also the basis of De Laire's amber chord: Ambre 83.

The classic amber or oriental accord

The oriental family of fragrances is composed of a classic oriental accord which is generally composed of tonka bean, vanilla, vanillin, coumarin, labdanum, and patchouli. Resins such as benzoin, frankincense or opopanax are also found in this scent. The iris facet dresses it up wonderfully well.

The amber base

The solid base is found in the pomander, a very well known chiseled wooden ball by L'Artisan Parfumeur and characteristic of the amber base. In order to obtain this paste formula, the liquid is mixed with a "dry" solvent which changes it into a solid state.

It is also possible to find this base, in less qualitative form, in the souks of Morocco or Tunisia, in the form of a white stone called "amber". However, it is not the true amber or oriental chord, but a composition.

 

 

Constituents of the oriental family

The main constituents of the oriental family (or amber family) are vanilla, tonka bean, myrrh, frankincense, styrax, benzoin, and oponax. 

Vanilla

Noble vanilla is the essential raw material of the oriental facet. This vanilla is not "sweet", it is the vanillin and ethylvanillin molecules that give this very sweet note. The wonderful vanilla or vanila planifolia is a variety of orchid that grows in tropical forests. It gives a fruit, the famous vanilla bean.

This vanilla is native to Mexico. Thanks to the work of a small bee (the melipone), the flower is pollinated. In 1848, Edmond Albius was a slave who discovered the secret of vanilla fertilization, which replaced the work of the melipone by human intervention. 

With the help of a piece of bamboo, the plant spur that closes the orchid is lifted and the pollen collected is put in contact with the pistil. This operation can only take place in the morning, when the flower has just bloomed. The women who take care of this operation are called "matchmakers". It takes about 18 months to obtain the fruit of this orchid, the precious black pod.

  • The preparation of the vanilla bean 

Once harvested, the vanilla bean is boiled for 3 minutes and covered for 24 hours. It is only after being exposed to the sun from morning until early afternoon on each side for a few hours a day, that they take on the appearance as we know them, which takes about 15 days. They become black, dry and free of bacteria. The vanillas are then sorted by hand, one by one, to make sure they are dry. 

  • Madagascar vanilla

Madagascar vanilla is found in 18 countries. The one from Mayotte and India is one of the most appreciated. It has become a rare and very luxurious material, and is the most expensive spice after saffron. The price of vanilla has thus been multiplied by 10 in 4 years. Its botanical nature, the olfactory treasures it contains and its price makes it unique. 

  • The different notes of vanilla

The enveloping and sensual warmth of vanilla comes in different notes. They can be milky, honeyed, amber, woody or spicy. It can sometimes have animal or even rum notes. There is also botanical vanilla called Tahitensis, which is more floral.

  • The multiple forms used of vanilla 

Vanilla tincture: To obtain a vanilla tincture, split beans must be macerated in alcohol for at least 1 month. But this technique is almost no longer used today. 
Vanilla absolute: Vanilla absolute is obtained after extraction of the beans with a volatile solvent. 
Synthetic products: Vanillin and ethylvanillin are synthetic materials. As we said, this vanilla is much sweeter. 

  • Little stories about vanilla

Everybody knows that the Aztecs consumed a chocolate drink, but they also used vanilla to flavour their nectar! Moreover, vanilla is a remedy against anxiety and brings strength and health to those who consume it or smell it.

Sylvaine Delacourte has declined this noble vanilla in 5 perfumes in her Vanilla Collection.


Tonka Bean

The tonka bean comes from South America and more particularly from Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil. If vanilla is produced by an orchid, the tonka bean comes from the fruit of the "dipteryx odorata", a tropical tree. It is also called coumarouna, or sarrapia. 

  • Characteristics of the tonka bean

The fruit of this tropical tree is in the shape of large almonds, which contain a seed. The seed is black, oval, oblong and shiny. As it dries out, it wrinkles and begins to smell. Its subtle fragrance intensifies with time. 

  • Treatment of the tonka bean

The treatment of the tonka bean is very similar to that of vanilla. After harvesting, it is sun-dried and sorted.

  • The multiple uses of the tonka bean

Initially, the seeds were powdered and sold in sachets which were then placed in cupboards between piles of laundry.

In perfumery, the tonka bean is processed by volatile solvent extraction to obtain the tonka bean absolute.

In cooking: the bean itself can also be grated in the same way as nutmeg to use in pastry, combined with chocolate, coffee and desserts such as panacotta.

To perfume snuff and pipe tobacco: the Amsterdamer (this practice is now banned in France and the United States).

  • The tonka bean, a unique fragrance

The tonka bean is truly a fragrant composition in itself. It is very rich in facets. We can find woody, balmy, vanilla, almond, pistachio, tobacco, hay or honey notes.

The main molecule of this raw material is called coumarin. It has an almond-like scent and faithfully evokes the smell of the little jars of glue from our childhood! The synthesis of coumarin was developed in 1868 to be used for the first time in the composition of Jicky with linalool and ethylvanillin (cf. The chypre family).

The tonka bean note is also found in Vahina from Sylvaine Delacourte's Vanilla Collection.


Myrrh 

  • The mythical origins of myrrh 

In Ovid's Metamorphoses, myrrh is linked to the myth of the transformation of Myrrha, the incestuous daughter of the king of Cyprus, into a myrrh tree, before giving birth to Adonis, who emerged from the bark of this tree.

  • The myrrh tree: the commiphora myrrha and her tears

Several species of myrrh or commiphora trees are at the origin of this substance and have a mythical past. These trees such as commiphora of Arabia or Abyssinia are small in size and there are more than 100 species of commiphora.

The most prized species are those that contribute the most to the production of oleo-gum-resin in the form of natural exudation. The tree produces real tears, whose colour varies from light yellow to fairly dark red. These fragile tears are almost crumbly, shiny and have a powerful aromatic odour.

  • Myrrh, a sacred scent

Myrrh is considered to be the most exquisite and precious of all perfumes. Myrrh is known to have been used in ancient times for the cult of the Gods. In turn, the Magi associated it with incense.

Beyond these sacred rituals, myrrh holds an important place in perfumery. Indeed, perfumers use myrrh essence obtained by steam distillation of the gum harvested from the tree. It has an intense, uplifting balsamic scent with facets of licorice, woody, almost fruity notes and notes of frankincense.

 

 

Incense

  • The incense tree: the boswellia

Incense, like myrrh, is a gum that is collected on "incense trees". The term "incense tree" includes a number of species of Boswellia from various countries such as Somalia, Yemen, Sudan, Ethiopia and India. 

  • Processing of Boswellia gum: the essence 

In perfumery, the gum harvested after incision of the tree trunk, is steam distilled to obtain the essence. This essence is a very powerful, dark and aromatic base note with a camphorated, resinous or smoky effect.

  • The various uses of incense

Incense has always corresponded to a certain ceremonial through the centuries, whether in the worship of the Gods, or for the preparation of remedies or perfumes.

The Egyptians used it in Antiquity to treat themselves, to embalm their dead and especially for fumigations in places of worship. Religions did not stop using incense. The far east devote almost sacred attention to incense in their private lives.


Styrax

  • Styrax balm 

Like the balms of Peru, Tolu, benzoin, myrrh or incense, styrax balm is secreted in the bark of two species of trees called liquidambar and found in Syria, Asia Minor and South America.

  • The treatment of styrax balm: the essence 

Styrax essence is obtained by distillation of the balm. Its scent is powerful, with balsamic and floral vanilla notes, but also animal, leathery and tar notes.


Benzoin

  • Benzoin gum

Benzoin is a balm that comes naturally or by incision from the trunk of a tree of the styracaceae family, the styrax benzoin. This tree grows in the regions of Siam and Sumatra. Exudation is actually a pathological reaction of the tree from which the gum or "benzoin tears" are collected. This gum is white when liquid and turns yellow when it dries. When it is harvested, it is already semi-solid.

  • Characteristics of benzoin

Siam benzoin is the variety most sought-after by perfumers because it has a pronounced vanilla facet. But it is also the rarest and therefore the most expensive! 
“Benzoin tears" develop a very sweet fragrance, much appreciated in Buddhist temples where it is used, whereas incense is present in Catholic churches. Benzoin develops very sweet vanilla notes, almond and roasted coffee notes, but also honeyed, floral carnation notes. Its fragrance is rich, syrupy, even medicinal.

  • Uses of benzoin

Benzoin has long been regarded as a variety of incense or myrrh and as a precious substance. It also played its role in the care of lung and skin diseases.

  • The treatment of benzoin: benzoin absolute 

In perfumery, the gum is treated by extraction with volatile solvents to obtain benzoin absolute.


The Opoponax 

  • The origin of the opoponax

Opoponax or opopanax is a gum that comes from a shrub growing mainly in Somalia and Ethiopia.

  • The Scent of Opoponax 

Opoponax offers a balsamic, soft, velvety scent. But it is also earthy, leathery, and close to myrrh.

  • A short history of opoponax

In the past, doctors believed that opoponax could cure tumours and used it in the form of plasters.


Oriental Perfumes

Feminine oriental perfumes

  • Habinita Molinard
  • Shalimar Guerlain 
  • Youth Dew Estée Lauder
  • Opium Yves Saint Laurent 
  • Coco Chanel
  • Must Cartier
  • Obsession Calvin Klein 
  • Soir d’Orient Sisley
  • Coromandel Chanel
  • L’Instant Guerlain

Gourmand, feminine oriental perfumes

  • Angel Mugler
  • Miss Dior Dior 
  • Mon Guerlain Guerlain
  • Good Girl Carolina Herrera 
  • La Petite Robe Noire Guerlain
  • La Vie Est Belle Lancôme
  • Hypnotic Poison Dior

Masculine oriental perfumes

  • Habit Rouge Guerlain 
  • A Men Mugler
  • Opium pour Homme Saint Laurent 
  • Obsession pour Homme Calvin Klein

Unisex oriental perfumes
The oriental family is a promise of sensuality and warmth for both women's and men's fragrances. Here are some mixed oriental perfumes:

  • Ambre Narguilé Hermès
  • L’Ambre L’Artisan Parfumeur
  • Ambre Parfum d’Empire
  • Cuir Cannage Dior
  • Patchouli Impérial Dior
  • Fève Délicieuse Dior
  • Mitzah Dior
  • Eau Noire Dior
  • Ambre Sultan Serge Lutens

 

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musks and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.