Hyraceum

Hyraceum, also called African Stone, is an animal essence used in perfumery. It is part of the natural animal notes, along with civet, musk, castoreum and ambergris.

 

Origin and history of animal notes 

The animal notes were discovered by Alexander the Great around 330 B.C. From then on, they became very useful to perfumers. Indeed, they possess powerful aromas, particularly resistant to evaporation. Animal notes, used in small doses, can be associated with more delicate scents, bringing smoothness to the perfume, subtly revealing their presence. 

At the beginning of the century, the majority of perfumes were composed of animal notes (then called fixatives). These tenacious animal notes are base notes, and add sensuality to perfumes. 

 

Hyraceum and animal notes on the perfumer's organ 

Hyraceum is one of 1000 natural notes available to the perfumer. There are also 3000 possible synthetic raw materials. The independent perfumer is free in the choice of their raw materials. They will generally select 1000 of them (natural and synthetic), according to their taste and training. On the other hand, if they work for a larger company, the perfumer will have to comply with the cardex of the company (reference book of products used in perfumery) and use the raw materials placed at their disposal.

In addition, certain tribes have used, and still use today, pure animal raw materials, or mixed with plants, to perfume themselves. Indeed, the smell of hyraceum is initially aggressive but softens when mixed with other substances, such as rose, jasmine or ylang-ylang (cf Floral family). Its scent can even sublimate the orchestration of the perfume, and thus bring a sensual, almost aphrodisiac note. 

 

 

Definition and origin of hyraceum

Hyraceum is an essence derived from an animal commonly called daman des Rochers or Cape daman. It is a rodent of the ungulate family, the size of a hare and similar to a large marmot, that has two small characteristic fangs and lives in caves. Hyraceum is created from the excrement of this animal, which is washed away by rainwater in very porous soil and then decomposed with pheromone-rich urine. Once mixed with soil and roots, this excrement is fossilized in the caves of the damans. The liquid petrifies during a very long process that sometimes lasts hundreds of years until the rocks are completely impregnated with it.

The harvest of hyraceum essence has existed since antiquity in East Africa and is carried out in rather rudimentary conditions. The hyraceum pickers, who are responsible for collecting the stones soaked with this liquid, must climb into caves using a ladder, a rather perilous exercise. Then they break the stones with chisels and hammers, pick them up and carry them by camel through the city to sell them.

According to ancient texts, the Egyptians also harvested hyraceum, which was used in mummification techniques, hence its other name, the Stone of God or the Stone of Africa.

 

The healing virtues of hyraceum

In addition to its use in perfumery, hyraceum also has healing properties. It is used by some African people to stop bleeding and can even disinfect wounds, relieve migraines, anxiety, and treat certain skin problems, as well as convulsions related to epilepsy.

 

Transformation process of hyraceum

The harvested stones become brown and brittle and then are crushed.
The dark oil that flows out is treated with hexane (a hydrocarbon), then iced and filtered.
A concentration stage follows, until a resinoid absolute is obtained (an extract of a dry, vegetable or animal raw material). The oil can also be processed as an infusion of alcohol.

Hyraceum is a rare product and therefore quite expensive. It is also the only authorized natural animal product, apart from ambergris which is even more expensive than hyraceum.

 

Olfactive description of hyraceum

Following this transformation process, hyraceum gives a particular note, very animalistic with a leather facet. The scent of hyraceum is between civet and castoreum.

It is important to know that hyraceum is an authorized natural animal raw material, as no suffering is caused to the animal to obtain it. The trade of hyraceum is therefore fair trade.

 

Other animal products to replace hyraceum

If the perfumer does not have a hyraceum on their perfume organ, they can use:

Synthesis notes, such as:

  • Indole, the animal note contained in the jasmine 
  • Paracresol, civetone or scatol

Natural products, such as:

  • Vegetable musks such as ambrette 
  • Vegetable notes with slightly “dirty” notes, such as cumin, costus, cistus labdanum, sage, atlas cedar, hyssop, osmanthus, leather notes, etc.

 

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