Hyraceum
Hyraceum, also called African Stone, is an animal essence used in perfumery. It is part of the natural animal notes, along with civet, musk, castoreum and ambergris.
Origin and history of animal notes
The animal notes were discovered by Alexander the Great around 330 B.C. From then on, they became very useful to perfumers. Indeed, they possess powerful aromas, particularly resistant to evaporation. Animal notes, used in small doses, can be associated with more delicate scents, bringing smoothness to the perfume, subtly revealing their presence.
At the beginning of the century, the majority of perfumes were composed of animal notes (then called fixatives). These tenacious animal notes are base notes, and add sensuality to perfumes.
Hyraceum and animal notes on the perfumer's organ
Hyraceum is one of 1000 natural notes available to the perfumer. There are also 3000 possible synthetic raw materials. The independent perfumer is free in the choice of their raw materials. They will generally select 1000 of them (natural and synthetic), according to their taste and training. On the other hand, if they work for a larger company, the perfumer will have to comply with the cardex of the company (reference book of products used in perfumery) and use the raw materials placed at their disposal.
In addition, certain tribes have used, and still use today, pure animal raw materials, or mixed with plants, to perfume themselves. Indeed, the smell of hyraceum is initially aggressive but softens when mixed with other substances, such as rose, jasmine or ylang-ylang (cf Floral family). Its scent can even sublimate the orchestration of the perfume, and thus bring a sensual, almost aphrodisiac note.
Definition and origin of hyraceum
Hyraceum is an essence derived from an animal commonly called daman des Rochers or Cape daman. It is a rodent of the ungulate family, the size of a hare and similar to a large marmot, that has two small characteristic fangs and lives in caves. Hyraceum is created from the excrement of this animal, which is washed away by rainwater in very porous soil and then decomposed with pheromone-rich urine. Once mixed with soil and roots, this excrement is fossilized in the caves of the damans. The liquid petrifies during a very long process that sometimes lasts hundreds of years until the rocks are completely impregnated with it.
The harvest of hyraceum essence has existed since antiquity in East Africa and is carried out in rather rudimentary conditions. The hyraceum pickers, who are responsible for collecting the stones soaked with this liquid, must climb into caves using a ladder, a rather perilous exercise. Then they break the stones with chisels and hammers, pick them up and carry them by camel through the city to sell them.
According to ancient texts, the Egyptians also harvested hyraceum, which was used in mummification techniques, hence its other name, the Stone of God or the Stone of Africa.
The healing virtues of hyraceum
In addition to its use in perfumery, hyraceum also has healing properties. It is used by some African people to stop bleeding and can even disinfect wounds, relieve migraines, anxiety, and treat certain skin problems, as well as convulsions related to epilepsy.
Transformation process of hyraceum
The harvested stones become brown and brittle and then are crushed.
The dark oil that flows out is treated with hexane (a hydrocarbon), then iced and filtered.
A concentration stage follows, until a resinoid absolute is obtained (an extract of a dry, vegetable or animal raw material). The oil can also be processed as an infusion of alcohol.
Hyraceum is a rare product and therefore quite expensive. It is also the only authorized natural animal product, apart from ambergris which is even more expensive than hyraceum.
Olfactive description of hyraceum
Following this transformation process, hyraceum gives a particular note, very animalistic with a leather facet. The scent of hyraceum is between civet and castoreum.
It is important to know that hyraceum is an authorized natural animal raw material, as no suffering is caused to the animal to obtain it. The trade of hyraceum is therefore fair trade.
Other animal products to replace hyraceum
If the perfumer does not have a hyraceum on their perfume organ, they can use:
Synthesis notes, such as:
- Indole, the animal note contained in the jasmine
- Paracresol, civetone or scatol
Natural products, such as:
- Vegetable musks such as ambrette
- Vegetable notes with slightly “dirty” notes, such as cumin, costus, cistus labdanum, sage, atlas cedar, hyssop, osmanthus, leather notes, etc.
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Civet
Animal notes of natural origin are today forbidden in the perfume industry. The main ones are civet, musk, castoreum, ambergris and hyraceum. Natural animal notes in perfume creation were used in very subtle fragrances to enhance smoothness in fragrances. Some flowers such as the jasmine, naturally contain animal notes called the indole that can be isolated and used by perfumers to enhance the other notes.
Spices
Spices are among the natural raw materials used in perfumery. There are two categories: fresh spices and hot spices. Fresh spices act mainly as top notes in a perfume, and warm spices will develop mainly as heart and base notes.
Woods
Woods are part of the botanical raw materials used in the perfume compositions, just like fruits and flowers. Many woods can be used in perfumery, such as: sandalwood cedar patchouli vetiver cypress oud wood gaiac wood birch wood
Synthetic raw materials
Modern perfumery was born at the end of the 19th century. At that time, perfumers began to incorporate synthetic ingredients into their formulas, which amplified the palette of the professional, offering them more creativity. It also allows for more abstract olfactory forms. Today, chemists are able to isolate aromatic compounds from a natural raw material, purify them and obtain the molecular structure of the raw material. Once this structure is identified, the specialist will be able to use organic chemistry to recompose the molecules. As pictorial art has acquired a new dimension with synthetic dyes, perfumery has reached new heights and has allowed new scents with synthetic products.
Balms or resins
Balms and resins are raw materials used in the composition of perfumes. They often intervene in fragrances of the oriental or amber family. These materials complement vanilla and bring a note of mystery to the fragrance. Balms and resins are also called balsamic notes. The most used balms and resins in perfumery are myrrh, frankincense, styrax, benzoin, Peru balsam, and Copahu balsam.
Castoreum
Castoreum is a secretion from the beaver. Now banned from use, castoreum is one of the natural animal notes used in perfumery, that also include: Civet Animal musk Ambergris Hyraceum
Flowers
Flowers are raw materials used in perfumery. There are different categories of flowers in perfumery: Green, spring or vegetal flowers White or sensual flowers, solar flowers Roses Spicy flowers Powdery flowers Atypical or rare flowers
Beeswax
“Nothing is more like a soul than a bee. It goes from flower to flower as a soul goes from star to star, and brings back honey as a soul brings back light.” - Victor Hugo, Ninety-three. Beeswax is one of the natural raw materials used in perfumery. The essential oil of honey does not exist, but perfumers are able to orchestrate the honeyed notes of beeswax with many other facets or olfactory families.
Other plant materials
There are animal, synthetic and vegetable raw materials used in perfume compositions. The latter are composed of flowers, fruits, spices, woods, balms and resins. There are also many other plant materials that can be used in a fragrance. We have listed them below.
Musk
Animal musk was one of the animal raw materials used in perfumery, along with civet, castoreum, ambergris and hyraceum. Musk is now banned in perfumery, there are many alternatives to avoid using these natural animal notes. There are perfumes as cool as the flesh of children,Sweet as oboes, green as meadows— And others are corrupt, and rich, triumphant,With power to expand into infinity,Like amber and incense, musk, benzoin,That sings the ecstasy of the soul and senses.- Charles Baudelaire, Correspondance
Fruits
Fruits are among the raw materials used in perfumery. Some fruits can be used naturally, while others have to be processed through synthesis, as it is impossible to extract their essence.
Ambergris
Ambergris is a concretion secreted by the sperm whale, with the appearance of a grey stone. It is rejected by the animal, floats to the surface and is then harvested. This animal raw material is very rare and therefore very expensive. Under no circumstances the sperm whale is harmed or killed to recover this material, so it is authorised. It is one of the main natural animal notes, just like : Civet Musk Castoreum Hyraceum