Aromatic herbs

Aromatic herbs typically evoke gastronomy, but they are also used in perfumery as raw materials. Aromatic herbs are always present in perfumes belonging to the fougère olfactory family, also known as the fern family. In perfumery, aromatic herbs are fresh and energizing raw materials.

Aromatics herbs are classified in three main groups:

• Lavender notes 
• Mint notes
• Aniseed notes

Aromatic herbs with lavender notes

Some aromatic herbs have lavender notes. This is particularly the case for the following raw materials: 

• lavender
• lavandin
• rosemary
• thyme
• sage
• mugwort

Lavender 

Origins of lavender

The south of France is the main producer of lavender. The term "lavender" comes from the Latin "lavare" which means "to wash". There are many different varieties of lavender, such as lavandula stoechas, lavandula officinalis, lavandula spica. Lavender flower is a symbol of purity and tranquility.

Treatment and manufacturing of the raw material

It is possible to obtain lavender essence by steam distillation, or lavender absolute by extraction with volatile solvents.

Olfactive description of lavender

Lavender has a herbaceous, camphorated, medicinal, and fresh scent. It has several facets, lavender exhale a note of bergamot, slightly floral, with woody tones. It is a powerful note that evokes gardens, summer, and the south of France.

Some people may also find a vintage side to it, because it tends to recall beard soap, classic colognes, or even grandma's cupboards, where small bags of lavender were placed to scent the laundry. Note that it is the percentage of linalyl that will give it its olfactory quality.

Usage of lavender

Traditionally related to the fern family (fougère family), lavender is also typical for eaux de Cologne or perfumes for men, but it is also found in the composition of chypre or oriental perfumes, and now in some perfumes for women. More and more, lavender is used in perfumes for children and teenagers.

Main constituents of lavender

Lavender consists of: linalool, linalyl acetate, geraniol, coumarin, camphor, and thymol.

Perfumes containing lavender

Here are some perfumes containing lavender: Vicky, Shalimar, Mon Guerlain and Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain; Pour Un Homme by Caron; Azzaro, Kouros, Eternity for Men by CK; Brin de Réglisse by Hermès; Bleu, Boy by Chanel; Dovana from the Musk Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte.

Lavandin

Origins of lavandin

Native to the Mediterranean basin, lavandin is a variety of lavender and the result of a cross between Lavandula Vera and Lavandula spica. Harvested mainly in the south of France. There are 3 varieties of lavandin: lavandin grosso, lavandin abrial, and lavandin Super. It is the Grosso lavandin that is cultivated the most.

Treatment and manufacture of the raw material

Like lavender, lavandin essence is obtained through steam distillation.

Olfactive description of lavandin

More camphorous than lavender, lavandin is fresh, slightly woody, spicy, and has a less chic side than real lavender. Its scent is herbaceous and somewhat similar to soap, it’s much more aromatic than lavender.

Usage of lavandin

Lavandin is mainly used for detergents and soap and generally in industrial perfumery.

Rosemary

Origins of rosemary 

Rosemary takes its name from the Latin "rosemarinus", which means "dew of the sea", because this plant was impregnated with the exhalations of the sea. Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean region.

Treatment and manufacture of the raw material

Rosemary essence is obtained by steam distillation of its leaves and flowers.

Olfactive description of rosemary

Rosemary is aromatic, fresh, herbaceous, camphorated, and woody in its evolution. Its scent is powerful, lavender, and bitter. This note is reminiscent of incense (cf. Balms and resins) with a slightly animal accent.

Usage of rosemary

Rosemary is mainly used in aromatic perfumes, eaux de Cologne and perfumes for men. It is also found in citrus fragrances and in fresh notes more generally (cf. Facette nouvelle fraîcheur). This aromatic herb can also refresh more oriental perfumes in their top notes.

Fragrances containing rosemary

Here are some fragrances containing rosemary: Jicky, Eau de Guerlain, Eau du coq, Tonka Impériale by Guerlain; Virgile and Helicriss by Sylvaine Delacourte.

Thyme

Origins of thyme

Native to Europe, thyme was used by the Egyptians for funeral ceremonies. The Greeks added it to incense ("thymos" meant "I perfume" in Greek).

There are many varieties of thyme: lemon thyme, wild thyme, German thyme. In the south of France, thyme is called "la farigoule", from the Occitan "farigola".

Treatment and manufacture of the raw material

Thyme is harvested from spring to the end of summer. The branches are dried and then steam distilled to obtain thyme essence.

Olfactive description of thyme

Thyme has a camphorated, herbaceous, spicy, even medicinal scent. Its notes are also very fresh and intense.

Usage of thyme

Thyme is frequently used in colognes and aromatic perfumes. It is also found in some spicy orientals fragrances.

Perfumes containing thyme

Here are some perfumes containing thyme: L'eau Noire by Dior, Eau de parfum by Gucci, For Him by Narciso Rodriguez, Pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels, Heure Bleue by Guerlain.

Sage

Origins of sage

Sage is an aromatic plant of the Lamiaceae family, it grows mainly in Europe. This plant takes its name from the Latin "salvare", which means "to save". Several varieties of sage have medicinal properties.

There are two main varieties of sage that interest us here: clary sage and sage that is used in particular for infusions and decoctions. There are many other species, but clary sage is the most used in perfumery.

Treatment and manufacture of the raw material

Two processes are used to obtain sage in perfumery, the most common is steam distillation, that gives sage essence.

However, it is also possible to obtain absolute sage by extraction with volatile solvents. Depending on the part of the plant used, the result obtained will be different. Extraction with volatile solvents from balms, gums and resins will give sage resinoid, while extraction of all the other organs of the plant will give sage concrete.

Olfactive description of sage

Clary sage has an aromatic scent, animal, woody and earthy, but also floral, lavender, green, minty and camphorated.

Usage of sage

Sage brings an aromatic and tonic note to perfumes and is often used in perfumes for men.

Clary sage, as an absolute, is sometimes used in the composition of chypre and oriental perfumes, although it is more traditionally associated with the ferns families. It possesses an extreme tenacity and is part of the base notes. Sage can be used to obtain Ambrox, which makes it possible to replace ambergris in perfumes. It’s rarely used in fragrances for women.

Perfumes containing sage

Here are some fragrances containing sage: L'heure bleue by Guerlain in its top notes, Polo by Ralph Lauren, Pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior Homme by Dior, Virgile from the Vanilla Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte.

Artemisia

Mugwort is an atypical plant, herbaceous perennial. Its Latin name is Artemisia, and it is native to North Africa and the Mediterranean basin. There are 300 different species. Mugwort has a herbaceous scent, fresh, camphorated, bitter, and a slightly poisonous note. It is essentially present in men's perfumery. Mugwort is also present in the fragrance Déclaration by Cartier and in Eau d'Armoise by Serge Lutens.

Aromatic herbs with aniseed notes

Among the aromatic herbs used in perfumery, some have aniseed notes. This is notably the case of:

• basil
• tarragon
• star anise

Basil  

Origins of basil

Originally from India and Lebanon, basil was introduced in Europe in the 16th century. It is cultivated in Mediterranean countries such as in Egypt and Morocco.

In the past, basil was strictly reserved for royal use in Ancient Greece and Rome. Indeed, "basil" originally means "royal".

There are at least 6 different varieties of basil, each of which has a distinct smell. Most of the production of basil is located in Egypt, North Africa, Southern Europe (especially Italy), the United States, Madagascar, France and the Seychelles.

Processing and manufacturing of the raw material

The essential oil of basil comes from the fresh leaves of the plant. They must be dried before steam distillation.

Olfactive description of basil

Basil has a herbaceous, aromatic, and fresh scent, while having character, but also green, spicy, very aniseedy, and minty, which sometimes draws on lavender with woody nuances. It is a very lively and tonic scent. The variety of basil with large leaves exhales a scent of jasmine flower, liquorice and lemon. Purple basil has peppery accents.

Usage of basil

Basil essential oil is mainly used in fresh compositions or ferns. It is often associated with lemon or spicy notes. Basil can also be used for chypre structures. Basil essential oil reinforces the aromatic facet while bringing an aniseed touch to a perfume. The scent of the essential oil of basil is very far from the fresh plant, which can be disappointing for a beginner perfumer or a perfume enthusiast.

Perfumes containing basil

Here are some perfumes containing basil: Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basil by Guerlain, L'Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal, L'Eau sauvage by Dior, Pour Homme by Azzaro, Euphoria for Men by CK, XY by Hugo Boss.

Tarragon

Origins of tarragon

Native to Russia and the Himalayas, tarragon was introduced to Spain by the Moors. Most tarragon production is concentrated in France.

Tarragon really became known in France in the 18th century. In Old French, tarragon was first called "tarcon" and then "targon". This word comes from the English "tarragon" which means "dragon grass".                 

Treatment and manufacture of the raw material

Tarragon essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of its leaves.

Olfactive description of tarragon

Tarragon has a green, aromatic, herbaceous, spicy and aniseed scent.

Usage of tarragon

Tarragon essence is used in fresh fragrances as a top note, often in combination with citrus. It can also be used with rose or cinnamon notes. 

One of the most common uses for tarragon remains the aromatic family, to bring an aniseed facet for example, or to reinforce the effect of hedione (a constituent of jasmine flower). Hedione is used a lot in perfumes for babies, children and teenagers.

Fragrances containing tarragon

Here are a few tarragon-based fragrances: Eau de Guerlain, L'Heure Bleue, Après l'Ondée by Guerlain; Infusion de Vétiver by Prada; Cerruti from 1881; Eau Sauvage by Dior; Oranzo from the Orange Blossom Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte.

Star anise

Origins of star anise

Originally from the Mediterranean basins (Egypt and Greece), star anise is mainly cultivated in Spain, Russia and Poland.

Star anise comes mainly from China or Vietnam, but also from Cambodia, Laos or Japan. This variety is easily recognizable by its 8-pointed brown star shape. It is by the way the only dry aromatic note. It is very appreciated in cooking as well as for its medicinal virtues.

Treatment and manufacturing of the raw material

The essential oil of anise is obtained by steam distillation of the seeds.

Olfactive description of anise

Star anise has a scent similar to aniseed. It’s spicy, strong, aromatic, fresh, and liquorice. However, star anise is significantly spicier, herbaceous and sweet, while the traditional anise note is greener, tart, and aromatic.

It is a note that we often love or hate because it reminds us of pastis, a speciality of the South of France. It can put off some people because its aromatic character is of a great personality.

Usage of anise

Most often, aniseed essential oil is used in perfumery in the top notes for its freshness and green accents. Its scent, indeed, brings freshness and modernity, and allows to reinforce certain notes of the fragrance.

This aromatic herb is often present in aromatic or chypre perfumes, as well as in perfumes for men. Its green, aromatic and spicy accents also accompany very well woody and aromatic compositions.

Fragrances containing aniseed

Here are some perfumes containing star anise: L'Instant pour homme by Guerlain, Lolita Lempicka, Hypnose pour homme by Lancôme, Mandragore by Annick Goutal, Méchant Loup by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Le Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier, Ozkan from the Orange Blossom Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte.

Aromatic herbs with minty notes

In addition to the aromatic herbs with lavender and aniseed notes, we also distinguish aromatic herbs with mint notes, among which : 

• peppermint
• spearmint

Peppermint

Origins of peppermint

The peppermint comes from a cross between aquatica mint and spicata mint. It is difficult to establish precisely its origins, but it is assumed that this variety of mint comes from England. It was then imported to the United States at the beginning of the 19th century. Nowadays, its production is located in Europe, Russia, Bulgaria and China.

According to the legend, the Greek god of Hell, Hades, fell in love with the nymph Mintha. His wife, out of jealousy, turned the nymph into a plant.

Olfactive description of peppermint

Peppermint is a cold, aromatic, fresh, slightly camphorated note. Its scent is also powerful, green, and mentholated with balsamic nuances.

Usage of peppermint

Peppermint can be used to reconstitute green or lavender notes. It is used in fresh perfumes, and is often associated with perfumes for men. It is sometimes found around peppery and spicy notes. Mint works particularly well in cosmetics, but also in candles.

Perfumes containing peppermint 

Here are some perfumes with peppermint notes: Homme by Guerlain, Géranium pour Monsieur by Frédéric Malle, Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden. 

Spearmint

Origins of spearmint

Spearmint spicata is another variety of mint used in perfumery. It is mainly cultivated in the United States, but is also found in Italy.

Processing and manufacturing of the raw material

Spearmint leaves are steam distilled to obtain spearmint essence.

Olfactive description of spearmint

Spearmint exhales a minty, herbaceous, slightly spicy, fresh and green, aromatic scent. It also has a chlorophyll smell, tart, with a note reminiscent of cut grass, and slightly fruity scent with a hint of melon.

Usage of spearmint

Spearmint used in aromatic or fougere perfumes, especially in top notes. Spearmint is very useful to bring freshness to the fruity notes and to the agreements with citrus fruits.

Fragrances containing spearmint

Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca.

Other aromatic notes

Absinthe

Origins of absinthe

This powerful herb has a large rhizome and grey-green leaves. It is native to Europe and Russia. Discovered by the Egyptians in 1600 BC, it takes its botanical name from a legend according to which the goddess Artemisia would have worshipped this plant, thus giving it its name.

The culture of absinthe is not specific to a particular country, but is practiced in rocky and slightly sunny regions.

Treatment and manufacture of the raw material

The essence of absinthe is obtained by steam distillation (a technique discovered during antiquity and still perpetuated in Grasse).

Olfactive description of absinthe

Absinthe is an aromatic herb that can be fresh, minty, bitter, aniseed and slightly woody. Its scent is more distant from the smell of the drink, that is more tonic, strong, and more aniseed in its evolution.

Usage of absinthe

Absinthe is mainly known to be a popular drink of the 19th century, which Verlaine and Rimbaud loved. Forbidden in many countries since the 20th century because of the thujones that can make it dangerous to the nervous system, it is now again authorized in certain countries.

In perfumery, absinthe is mainly used for the perfumes of the fern or aromatic family, and for green notes.

Perfumes containing absinthe

Some perfumes contain absinthe, such as: A taste of Heaven by By Kilian, Fou d'absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Douce-Amère by Serge Lutens.

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances 

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.