The woody family

The woody family is one of the six olfactory families used to classify perfumes into categories according to the classification of the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP).
Here are the six olfactory families that exist :

Each fragrance is composed of an architecture of 5 to 10 components that fit together.
As in music, this is called an "accord". The main theme of a perfume will be given by this main accord, which in a way represents the soul of the fragrance.
Each main theme (such as woody, floral, or citrus) can be dressed in one or more facets by the perfumer-creator, in order to make the architecture of his fragrance more complex (the more faceted a fragrance is, the more complex it will be).

The woody facet in a perfume 

  • The woody note: a facet and a main theme

The woody facet can be the main theme of the fragrance. In that case, the woody notes will clearly be felt from the moment you spray the fragrance.
In the woody family, one wood may be predominant, but most often it is a blend of several woody notes.
The woody notes can be sublimated by subtle citrus, floral, fruity, spicy or vanilla facets, without the latter taking over the woody notes. 

Woody notes are reassuring and structured notes giving the fragrance a backbone. 

  • The woody facet and chypre fragrances

Chypre fragrances will always be included in the woody facet, for example with the patchouli ingredient. A chypre fragrance will be woody by definition.

Definition of the woody family

  • The woody family: a masculine family?

The woody family is most often attributed to men but women tend to wear woody scents more and more. 

 

 

Natural woody notes 

The main natural woody notes are cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, pine and cypress. 

Sandalwood 

It is the only soft, milky and creamy wood. Sandalwood came from India but now protected by the Indian government. Today we find it in Southeast Asia. There are different varieties of sandalwood. The sandalwood spicatum, which grows in Australia and looks more like a cedarwood, and sandalwood austro caledonicum, which grows in New Caledonia.

The natural sandalwood is a very dull note, not very powerful, but very tenacious. Particularly difficult to work with, it is a challenge for the perfumer-creator, because alone, it doesn't perform well in a composition. It is often accompanied by sandalwood molecules to sublimate the natural note.

It takes about 30 years for the sandalwood tree to reach its final size, a circumference of 50 cm. In order to be used in perfumery, this wood must be cut and then treated by distillation.

Sandalwood molecules 

There are many synthetic sandalwood molecules but they cannot replace natural sandalwood. They are used to boost natural sandalwood, but they must be treated with care. 

  1. Polysantol
  2. The sandal
  3. The sandella 

Sandalwood perfumes 

Here are some references of sandalwood perfumes in the woody olfactory family :

  • Samsara by Guerlain (1989)

Samsara by Guerlain uses sandalwood in perfumes for women for the first time. An overdose of wood, with up to 20% of the sandalwood formula, is accompanied mainly by ylang-ylang, jasmine flower and a few sandalwood molecules. Samsara can be considered the first great woody fragrance for women launched internationally. 

  • Wood of the Chanel Islands (1926)

The very pretty Bois des îles d'Ernest Beaux offers sandalwood and vetiver coated with warm notes such as tonka bean, cinnamon, and vanilla. Bois noir, an ephemeral perfume for men created by Jacques Polge in 1987 is a continuation of Bois des îles. It is found under the name Égoïste in 1989.

  • Sandalwood Massoïa by Hermès (2011)

Santal Massoïa created by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès in 2011 is a woody perfume where round and mellow notes are highlighted. Sandalwood first appears as "this horizontal and carnal wood", according to the perfumer, which he associates with the idea of a Massoïa wood.

  • Tam Dao by Diptyque (2003)

Tam Dao by Diptyque, named after a national park in Vietnam, is a very powerful perfume built around sandalwood. It is very appreciated by women.

  • Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons (2010)

The unisex scent of Comme Des Garçons, Wonderwood is a combination of sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, guaiac wood, cedar, agarwood (also called oud) and cypress. 

  • Guerlain Sandalwood (2015)

Guerlain Royal Sandalwood combines sandalwood with oud wood. 

  • Sandalwood by Lutens (unisex fragrance)

Here are three perfumes of Serge Lutens composed of sandalwood :

  1. Sandalwood of Mysore by Serge Lutens (1991), a milky and spicy sandalwood. 
  2. White Sandalwood by Serge Lutens (2001/2019) a white sandalwood accompanied by iris, cinnamon, pink pepper and musk.
  3. Sandalwood by Serge Lutens (2012), a sandalwood mixed with rose with a sweet woody trail and light notes of chocolate.

Cedar

Cedar note is reminiscent of pencil lead, sawmill and wood chips. It goes wonderfully with vetiver and citrus fruits, especially grapefruit. Chemistry made it possible to isolate many molecules from the cedar. These molecules, such as cedrol, vertofix or cedramber can also be interesting.

There are different cedars depending on their origin: Virginia cedar, Texas cedar and Atlas cedar. The Atlas cedar can reach 40m, it is used in carpentry and wood chips (by-products of carpentry) to obtain the essential oil by distillation. Its fragrance has an animal, smoky note. The Virginia cedar is the one that reminds most of the pencil lead and can reach 25m. Olfactively, the Virginia and Texas cedars are quite close because they have the same origin. The essential oil of the Atlas cedar is more powerful than the one coming from the Virginia and Texas cedars.

The cedar molecules

Chemistry also made it possible to isolate numerous molecules from the cedar. These molecules, such as cedrol, vertofix or cedramber are very interesting.

Perfumes with cedar

Here is a list of some woody perfumes with cedar: 

  • L'Eau des Merveilles d'Hermès (2004)

Evernyl, a synthetic foam, is associated with cedar, notably in the chypre perfume L'Eau des Merveillesd'Hermès.

  • Femininity of Shiseido Wood (1992)

Cedar is associated with fruity notes in Femininity of Shiseido Wood. This perfume celebrates the Atlas cedar, evoking Morocco dear to Serge Lutens. Its composition spiced by cinnamon, clove and iridescent notes of violet makes it a "purist" woody fragrance. This fragrance inspired Dolce Vita by Dior in 2005.

  • Bois Farine de l'Artisan Parfumeur (2003)

Jean-Claude Ellena created Bois farine in 2003 for l'Artisan parfumeur proposing a cedar, vetiver and hazelnut accord.

Patchouli

Patchouli grows in a tropical climate, originally from Malaysia, it is today mainly cultivated in the Indonesian islands (Sumatra, Java), in India, Madagascar and then Guatemala and Rwanda in smaller proportions.

In Indonesia, farmers cut the branches of the plant three times a year, whose leaves are then distilled. As soon as they are cut, the green or mahogany-colored leaves fade very quickly. Once the leaves are dried, a real ritual takes place, during which the women cut as many stems as possible, in order to keep as many leaves as possible loaded with essential oil.

The patchouli leaf is odorless and must be left to ferment to obtain its scent (400 kg of leaves gives 100 kg of dry matter and 2 kg of essential oil). Patchouli was discovered by the English who imported Kashmir shawls wrapped with patchouli leaves (the latter were then used to protect themselves from insects).

In India, the wives of the upper caste of the Brahmins made fine patchouli tracings on their arms to signify that they were ready to marry. Patchouli is known in this country as the plant of fertility and desire. Patchouli is, indeed, a promise of sensuality on its own! The dried leaves of the shrub produce a dark, earthy, camphorated, almost medicinal woody note.

For a few years now, there has been a product called "patchouli heart", it helps to rid the essence of its slightly dusty notes. The product then becomes pure, slender, majestic, and even more beautiful.

Perfumes with patchouli

Patchouli is one of the main components of the oriental accord, which is found in Guerlain's Shalimar and Habit Rouge (worn by many women), as well as in Yves Saint Laurent's Opium. Patchouli is also one of the main components of the chypre accord, in which it replaces oakmoss. In Clinique's Aromatics Elixir (1975), patchouli plays a duet with rose.

Patchouli is also found in chypre oriental perfumes such as Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Coco Noir by Chanel, Miss Dior by Dior, For Her by Narcisso Rodriguez, La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain, to name a few. Indeed, patchouli is today omnipresent in perfumes, whether for women or men. The Eau de Toilette Patchouli by Réminiscence, Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford (unisex) have an overdose of patchouli. Other examples include Patchouli Impérial by Dior, Coromandel by Chanel, Miss Dior Original by Dior, Patchouli Patch by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Portrait of the Lady by Frédéric Malle, Tempo by Diptyque.

Finally, patchouli possesses many qualities that allow it to be in many perfumes, both feminine and masculine.

Vetiver 

Known and used since ancient times, vetiver takes its name from the Tamil word (the language of Tamil Nadu, an Indian state) "vettiveru".

It is one of the most beautiful woody notes on the perfumers' palette. It conveys elegance and plays with time and fashion.

Moreover, its harvest is called "the excavations", because you have to turn over the land to extract the roots. They separate the aerial stems from the roots of more than 50 cms long, which will then be washed and distilled (these stems are notably used in the manufacture of roofs, and prove to be excellent protection against rain). 100 kg of roots is necessary to obtain 1 kg of essential oil.

Today, many confections are made from vetiver, such as fans, woven baskets, or even vetiver screens that locals water to bring out the natural freshness of the plant, which then functions as a kind of natural air conditioning.

The vetiver root has a nervous woody scent. Its earthy and wet note reminds you of fresh hazelnut with a more or less smoky accent. It also has grapefruit, almost rhubarb facet. The Indian or Haitian vetiver, or the Reunion Island vetiver, which is commonly called "bourbon vetiver", are the most appreciated in perfumery, but the Reunion Island vetiver is very rare. The vetiver from Java is drier and much rougher, and therefore attracts less interest. It is also 15% cheaper than Haiti vetiver.

The scent of vetiver is very interesting because it gives a real vibration to the perfume, from the top notes to the base notes.

Guerlain was one of the first to pay tribute to vetiver. Indeed, Guerlain's Vétiver (1959) combines this fresh woody note with citrus fruits, tonka bean, nutmeg, and a tobacco accord. This unique accord differentiates it from other vetivers on the market. 

 

 

Synthetic woody notes

Fortunately, perfumery can also use very beautiful woody notes from synthesis.

A molecule from vetiver

Chemistry isolated vetiveryl acetate, a molecule from vetiver and this one, paradoxically, is more expensive than the natural product. It is an uplifting, extremely fresh and pure note.

We also use vetiverol, it is a heart of vetiver, this one rid of its dusty note.

Perfumes with synthetic vetiver

Here are some references of woody perfumes composed of vetiver : 

  • Guerlain Homme de Guerlain (2008)

Guerlain Homme co-created by Sylvaine Delacourte contains vetiver.

  • L'eau boisée de Guerlain (2008)

L'Eau Boisée is a fresh and woody interpretation, includes an overdose of vetiver.

  • Vétiver pour Elle by Guerlain (2004)

Vétiver pour Elle, created by Jean Paul Guerlain, nowhere to be found, was an answer to women who wanted to have "their own Vétiver". It can be described as a woody-floral fragrance with tonka bean and vetiver in base notes.

  • Oriental Vetiver by Serge Lutens (2002)

Serge Lutens' Vétiver Oriental is built on the bitter chocolate note of Java vetiver.

  • Vétiver extraordinaire by Éditions Frédéric Malle (2000)

In Vétiver Extraordinaire, from Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Dominique Ropion, its creator, uses more than 25% vetiver combined with other woody notes. Vetiver elegantly rubs shoulders with tonka beans, with the smell of cut hay.

  • Vétiver Tonka, Les Hermessence by Hermès (2004)

Vetiver Tonka in the Hermessences collection, Jean-Claude Ellena presents for Hermès a perfume in which vetiver surround itself with cedar, orange, grapefruit, pepper and balsamic notes like benzoin.

  • Terre d'Hermès, d'Hermès (2006)

In the same way, Terre d'Hermès stages vetiver with the same actors. In this woody citrus fragrance, we find citrus and spicy notes with slightly smoky and leathery effects.

Vetiver root is also present in Smeraldo and Florentina from Sylvaine Delacourte's Muscs Collection.

Notes of pine or cypress

The woody notes of pine or cypress are little used in perfumery, but we can evoke some interesting essences such as : 

  • Pine essence with fresh, rising, bitter and balsamic notes. 
  • The fir balsam, a natural note of pine needles, a little gourmand, with a raspberry note.
  • Borneol and iso bornyl acetate have the smell of sun-warmed pines.
  • The fig tree accord has become classic, it is a composition with different woods, including sandalwood associated with coconut and stemone, a green note.

Perfumes with pine or cypress

  • Pino sylvestre (1955) and Acqua di selva (1949): two great classics
  • Filles en aiguilles by Serge Lutens (2009)

Pino sylvestre, recognizable by its green bottle with a shape reminiscent of spruce, was created by Lino Vidal in 1955. The note of pine needles is very present. And Acqua di selva by Visconte Di Modrone, where we find cedar and vetiver in the base notes. These two classic and popular perfumes have left their mark in perfumery. Moreover, Fille en aiguilles created by Christopher Sheldrake in 2009 for Serge Lutens takes up this theme.

The fig tree 

The fig or fig tree note is created from a chord composed of green, stemone, coconut and woody notes (cedar and sandalwood).

In 1994, the fig note appears in a perfume Premier Figuier, a composition for L'Artisan Parfumeur. This fig tree note was however already present in the Fig Tree and Philosykos candle by Diptyque. From now on, it is a note that is found in many eaux de toilette and fragrances, such as Hermès' Jardin en Méditerranée.

The oud wood

Many woody perfumes are now made from oud wood or agarwood. One also speaks about "oudh wood", "agar wood", "aloe wood", "jinko" or "gaharu", but all these names indicate the same material.

It is a dark and very fragrant resin that develops in a variety of trees called aquilaria, when they are infected by a fungus, the phialophora. The resin that then develops in the heart of the tree is a defense reaction against the fungus. The raw material obtained is very valuable and therefore very expensive, which is why it is rarely used naturally. Moreover, few brands use it in this form, and the oud wood of perfumes is often a reconstitution (cf. How to preserve its perfume?).

Oud wood is the trendy note of the moment, and the perfumes that contain it are so numerous that it would be tedious to make a list of them. Generally speaking, it is a note appreciated by men and women.

Guaiac wood 

Guaiac wood is a wood with smoky, slightly leathery notes. If there is a lot, it can give a note with a slightly "smoked ham" effect.

Birch wood

Contrary to what its name might suggest, birch wood is not a woody note, but a dark leather note. On the other hand, it is now prohibited by law. A good reconstitutions successfully replace this natural note.

Fragrances for women with a woody facet

Here are some other references of perfumes for women with a very woody facet: 

  • Alien Mugler
  • Olympéa Paco Rabanne
  • Narciso Rodriguez (red)
  • The Fragrance Coach 

Synthetic woods

Here are the different synthetic woods used in the woody family : 

  • Evernyl

Evernyl with the note of moss is generally present in chypre perfumes.

  • Cashmeran

The famous cashmeran has a soft, almost oriental woody note.

  • Southern

The sudéral is a beautiful synthetic molecule. It is not woody but is in the register of soft and clear leather. The sudéral replaces the birch wood note, forbidden by legislation.

Sudéral is present in Ozkan from Sylvaine Delacourte's Orange Blossom Collection.

  • Super iso-e

This molecule with a velvety, almost musky woody note that works well in all olfactory families. It is present in overdose in Trésor de Lancôme.

Amber woods: karanal (regulated), ambrocenide, norlimbanol, Z11.

Another molecule of synthesis, the karanal, made all the success of Dolce Gabbana's Light Blue in 2001. It is a very fresh fragrance of the woody family, built around a citrus structure and fruity and juicy notes. The karanal, or equivalent of this new woody note, gives a real power and a trail to this perfume. Since this launch, these hyper-powerful molecules are very often found fragrances for men. 

Conclusion 

The confidential perfumery, more audacious and remarkable for its great creative freedom, does not distinguish between perfumes for men and women. In the woody family the choice is the richest.

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

You can find: 

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musks and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.