The floral family

There are 6 different olfactory families in perfumery, which allow to classify the perfumes (citrus, floral, amber or oriental, chypre, woody and aromatic). The feminine floral family is certainly the richest and broadest family that exist. Floral fragrances are also highly appreciated and popular all over the world.

Floral notes, which can be described as "figurative" or "abstract" notes, are numerous and differ a lot from each other. Thus, it is impossible to love all the floral fragrances, as their scents are varied and specific, it often happens to appreciate a particular category of flowers.

In perfumery, there are also "soliflores" or "floral bouquets". These floral notes can be found in all olfactory families and are more likely to be found as heart notes in a perfume. 

Here are the different categories of flowers in floral fragrances:

  • Green / spring or vegetal flowers
  • White or sensual flowers / solar flowers
  • Powdery flowers
  • Spicy flowers
  • Roses
  • Atypical flowers

 

Spring flowers in the floral family

Synonyms of freshness, spontaneity and joy, these flowers bring green and vegetal notes to floral scents. However, not all spring flowers (even if their smell is very rich), can be treated naturally for use in perfumery: many of them are "mute flowers", whose scent will then have to be reconstituted using other natural materials and synthetic products. Here are the main spring flowers, also called “flowers of renewal”, in perfumery:

Narcissus 

This flower from Central Europe, Africa and Asia can be used naturally in perfumery. The largest production is now in Auvergne. It is very popular among perfumers who use it, especially in prestigious perfumes, as in some floral or chypre perfumes (cf. The Chypre family). It has a green scent (cf. The Green facet) that is very earthy, animal-like, and particularly difficult to work with. Narcissus was also used in L'Artisan Parfumeur's Mont de Narcisse perfume.

Daffodil

This flower releases its scent through an extraction process using volatile solvents. The daffodil has a unique signature, which is recognized among all. It is very fresh and instantly reminds one of the spring season. 

Daffodil is present in several floral fragrances, such as : 

  • Vol de Nuit Guerlain
  • Velvet Orchid Tom Ford
  • Eau de printemps L’Artisan Parfumeur
  • Dolce Rosa Dolce Gabbana

 

 

White flowers in the floral family

Also known as "narcotic flowers" or "sensual flowers", they share the same indole molecule, which brings a natural animal note to these white flowers.

Jasmine flower

There are two varieties of jasmine used in perfumery: jasmine Grandiflorum (which exhales a balanced and delicate fragrance, and has an animal or fruity scent, which varies according to the production); and Sambac jasmine (native to India, it has a warm, orangey scent, even more animal than Grandiflorum). This emblematic flower can be found in many floral fragrances: 

  • J’adore Dior
  • Jasmin des Anges Dior
  • Splendida Jasmin noir Bulgari
  • Shalimar Guerlain
  • Souffle de Parfum Guerlain
  • À la Nuit Serge Lutens
  • Le Parfum Elie Saab 
  • Jasmin rouge Tom Ford
  • Eau des Sens Diptyque
  • La chasse aux Papillons L’Artisan Parfumeur 
  • Jasmin Rouge Tom Ford

Tuberose

Formerly called "hyacinth of India", this flower, both exotic and narcotic, is the most fragrant in the plant world. Tuberose treated by enfleurage is very rare nowadays, and is now extracted by volatile solvent extraction. This flower is very expensive in perfumery and is often preferred to reconstituted alternatives. Its scent, at first slightly medicinal (like that of an ointment), becomes over time a milky, solar, coconut-scented fragrance. Situated between honey nectar and candied fruit, this exotic, poisonous and erotic perfume escapes from the flowers up to two days after picking. 

Here are a few floral fragrances composed of tuberose : 

  • Tubéreuse Criminelle Serge Lutens
  • Fracas Piguet
  • Le Premier Parfum Chloé
  • Poison Dior
  • Nuit de Tubéreuse L’Artisan Parfumeur
  • Jardins de Bagatelle Guerlain
  • Parfum Terracotta Guerlain
  • Carnal Flower Frédérique Malle
  • Do Son Diptyque
  • Gabrielle Chanel

Ylang-ylang 

Ylang-ylang is considered in Indonesia to be the "flower of flowers". It displays an exuberant and extroverted nature and exhales very exotic scents. It’s an explosive floral bouquet, between jasmine and tuberose, which gives color to the perfumes. With its milky, fleshy notes, ylang-ylang is also recalls the flower of solar monoi (cf. The Solar facet). Its intoxicating, narcotic and wild scent is widely used in floral fragrances and appreciated by perfumers. 

Here are some fragrances with ylang-ylang:

Frangipani flower

Frangipani flower is a sacred and delicate flower, which is also found in floral perfumes, but only delivers its scent by a process of reconstitution in the laboratory (cf. How to keep a perfume?). This "laboratory flower" is made up of a dozen olfactory elements.

If you are a fan of frangipani blossom, you should discover Vanori by Sylvaine Delacourte, a perfume with sunny vanilla and frangipani notes, hot sand, benzoin resin and vanilla, with a grapefruit smile on top.

Tiare flower

From a tropical shrub, these immaculate white flowers are the national symbol of Tahiti. Perfumers are now able to use it naturally, but once extracted, its scent is unfortunately not as bewitching and sweet as the flower's original scent. A process close to enfleurage is also used, but only at the local production level. The exotic elegance of the tiare flower is found in the olfactory palette of a large number of floral scents, such as:

  • Tiaré Chantecaille
  • Bronze Goddess Estée Lauder

Gardenia

Small shrub with very fragrant white flowers, the gardenia is native to different countries (China, Japan, Philippines, Indonesia, India, California ...). In perfumery, only gardenia reconstitutions are used. They mainly consist of a white flower accord and green notes accompanied by tyglates (molecules bringing a mushroom note).

After extraction of the gardenia flower, the gardenia absolute obtained is not at all faithful to the smell of the original flower. However, it is used to isolate styrallyl acetate, which gives its green rhubarb note.

Some perfumers have integrated gardenia into their floral fragrances: 

  • Cruel Gardenia Guerlain 
  • Gardenia Chanel
  • Passion Goutal
  • Songes Goutal

Lily

This flower has had a religious symbolism for thousands of years, yet its powerful and haunting scent remains elusive to perfumers and floral fragrances.

  • Baiser Volé Cartier
  • Vanille Galante Hermès
  • Lys Méditerranée Frédéric Malle

Magnolia

Belonging to the Magnoliaceae family, the magnolia is a tree native to the Far East, whose production today comes mainly from China. It is the Michelia alba variety that interests perfumers and their floral fragrances. It is harvested from May to June, and August to November. 

The note is floral and has an important “citrus” facet. Its lemony freshness is tinged with green notes, giving way to hints of vanilla in a soft and sunny floral facet. Magnolia leaves are also used in the manufacture of perfumes, although the scent of the leaves is more difficult to use in the compositions.

Orange blossom

Bigaradier (Citrus aurantium) is a tree that is highly appreciated by perfumers for its versatility. In addition to orange blossom absolute, neroli essence (fresh, airy, lavender and sweet) and petit grain essence (green, lavender (cf. The Aromatic facet)), it also makes it possible to obtain bitter orange, whose skin is treated by expression and which gives the essence of bitter orange.

Usually, white flowers cannot withstand steam distillation. The only exception is orange blossom, which can be distilled to produce neroli essence, or treated by extraction with volatile solvents to obtain orange blossom absolute. The essence of petit grain is produced by the distillation of branches.

Neroli is most often associated with citrus fragrances and eaux de Cologne rather than floral scents. It is not uncommon to find it in the top notes of fresh floral scents. 

For chypre and oriental accords, or for white floral scents, orange blossom absolute is more appropriate. It is used to reconstitute exotic scents such as gardenia and tiare flower. Most often used as a heart note, orange blossom absolute also accentuates fruity notes (like apricot, for example).

As for petit grain, it is an ally of eaux de Cologne, eaux fraîches, masculine and unisex fragrances.

Here is a list of some creations consist of orange blossom and neroli:

 

Rosy notes in the floral family

Rose

Among all the varieties of roses that exist, only two are used in perfumery: the May rose, or Centifolia rose (which has a honeyed, round, warm and slightly candied note) and the Damask rose, or Damascena rose (which exists in essence and absolute with distinct scents for each). 

The rose has always been used in floral fragrances in different ways (it can be fresh, or rather oriental). This flower also goes wonderfully well with chypre accords, especially neo-chypresses. 

The rose was, among other things, honored in these fragrances:

  • N°5 Chanel
  • Jo Patou
  • Paris YSL
  • Nahéma Guerlain
  • Idylle Guerlain
  • Rose barbare Guerlain
  • Drôle de Rose L'Artisan Parfumeur
  • Voleur de Rose L'Artisan Parfumeur
  • Lipstick Rose Frédéric Malle
  • Dovana Sylvaine Delacourte
  • Chloé Chloé
  • Infusion Rose Prada
  • Romance Ralph Lauren
  • Isia Sisley

Rose is one of the few flowers that is treated by extraction with volatile solvents, as well as by steam distillation. However, rose essence (harvested by steam distillation) is very expensive. Indeed, this technique requires no less than 4 tons of rose petals to produce 1 kg of the precious liquid. Extraction with volatile solvents is therefore less expensive, and will result in a fuller and more dense rose absolute, which will serve as a heart and base note in floral fragrances.

Geranium rosat (The Rose Geranium)

Pelargonium rosat, or geranium rosat, is native to the African continent. The leaves and stem of the plant hold the fragrance that is used in the composition of floral perfumes. This flower offers a note similar to the rose (geranium rosat indeed contains 30% of the components that the rose possesses).

However, geranium rosat also has an aromatic green facet. With its hints of mint, this facet evokes lychee, or even lemongrass. It is a masculine flower, whose note is frequently found in the fern accord.

The scent of geranium is found in a large number of creations, including:

Peony

This dewy flower does not deliver its scent to perfumers. They must therefore use a reconstitution using rose essence and certain natural compounds of the rose: phenylethyl alcohol and geraniol. More fruity elements (raspberry, for example) (cf. Fruits) as well as delicately powdery notes (such as ionones or heliotropin) sometimes supplement the reconstitution of the peony.

 

 

Spicy flowers in the floral family

The spicy flowers are carnation, wallflower and immortelle.

Carnation

The carnation should not be confused with the marigold, also called "tagète". The scent of this flower is often reconstituted by the association of rose and spices (cloves, vanillin and heliotropin). Carnation can be used naturally, but the final result is not widely used (then called absolute Egyptian carnation) because it does not carry the spicy smell that characterizes the flower in the minds of the public.

Even if it is not used much, you can find carnation in certain floral perfumes, for example:

Wallflower

Wallflower is distinguished by a musky and very spicy scent with a hint of vanilla. It can be used in perfumery only through a reconstitution process.

Immortal

From its botanical name Helichrysum, the Immortelle is a yellow flower growing in the maquis of Corsica, Spain and France. In perfumery, it is used after being treated by distillation. Its fragrance is very spicy, sweet, with a facet of tobacco, honey and a slight odor of curry. This raw material is particularly complex to work with.

You can find it in Helicriss from the Musk Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte and in Sables by Annick Goutal.

 

Powdery flowers in the floral family

The powdery flowers are iris, mimosa, cassia, violet and heliotrope.

Iris 

Iris Pallida has a powdery, violet and mimosa scent with woody accents (cf. The Woody facet) and a hint of raspberry and carrot. However, it should be noted that it is not the plant that will be treated for use in perfumes, but its rhizome, which can sometimes reveal a slightly earthy and austere aspect depending on the orchestration of the fragrance. Iris is one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery (it takes three years to dry), and its scent, very refined and elegant, even a little "retro", sublimates on the skin.

Iris is often used in floral fragrances with powdery accords and sometimes also to complement oriental or woody accords.

The quality of the iris depends on its percentage of irone, a particularly expensive odorous chemical, whose scent is very similar to violet.

Mimosa

This flower cultivated in the south of France is quite a complicated raw material to work with in perfumery. It must be treated by extraction with volatile solvents to obtain the mimosa absolute. Olfactively, the mimosa has a small accent of violet and a powdery, almond scent, with a rather pronounced green facet (the leaves are distilled at the same time as the flowers).

Here are a few floral scents based on mimosa :

  • Mimosa pour moi L’Artisan parfumeur
  • Champs Elysées Guerlain
  • Mimosa Pour Moi Atelier Cologne
  • Indigo Atelier Cologne
  • Les Infusions Mimosa Prada

Cassie

Cassia is, like mimosa (it belongs to the same family: acacias), a difficult flower to work with in perfumery. Its scent is powdery, spicy, woody and balsamic, and possesses animal notes close to those of ylang-ylang, with sulfur and aldehyde effects. In perfumes of the floral family, cassia blends very well with iris, mimosa, and violet notes.

Although rare, the cassie flower has been used by some perfumers in their floral perfumes, such as:

  • Fleurs de Cassie Frédéric Malle
  • Après l’Ondée Guerlain

Violet

The scent of the violet is reproduced in floral perfumes thanks to ionones or methylionones (the first ionone was discovered at the end of the 19th century). Indeed, the violet does not deliver its fragrance and therefore cannot be used in a natural way.

Here are some perfumes that were sublimated thanks to the fragrances of the violet:

Heliotrope or heliotropin 

Heliotrope, or heliotropin, is a mute flower that does not deliver its fragrance, but which can fortunately be reproduced synthetically, or by reconstitution from other raw materials, notably Tahitensis vanilla. Its scent is floral, almond-like, and close to mimosa and lilac.

 

Rare flowers in the floral family

Some rare or atypical flowers are also used in perfumery in floral fragrances, including :

Reseda

This flower exhales a honeyed scent, close to lily of the valley and narcissus.

Champaca 

A highly prized white flower, Michelia Champaca has pleasant amber and hay scent, and also rose, honeyed note, with an ylang-ylang effect, like a heady, spicy, animal jasmine in the base notes.

The highly appreciated champaca flower is used in the following creations:

  • Champaca Comme Des Garçons
  • Un Matin d’Orage Annick Goutal 

Broom

This shrub has very fragrant golden yellow flowers, which deliver a fruity, bitter scent, between orange blossom, lime blossom, honey and tobacco.

Pittosporum

The pittosporum is a small tree with magnificent, varnished and evergreen foliage, whose white and greenish flowers offer a pleasant scent, something between jasmine and orange blossom. However, it is not possible to create an essence or an absolute; reconstructions of the scent must therefore be carried out.

Mahonia

This shrub with holly-like leaves is native to America and Asia. It offers a honeyed note, close to lily of the valley and narcissus, and only exists in the form of a reproduction.

Karo karoundé

Karo karoundé is a floral note close to narcissus, very green, it is also spicy with an "animal leather" effect. It is used in natural form in perfume compositions.

The syringe

This flower with jasmine and orange blossom facets brings a lot of freshness to perfumes. However, it is a mute flower, which does not deliver its fragrance when it is treated for use in perfumery. Perfumer-creators will therefore have to reconstitute the scent from other raw materials.

There are a multitude of other scents within the floral family, including hyacinth, present in Guerlain's Chamade perfume and lily of the valley (present in Porcelaine by Hermès, Diorissimo by Dior, Muguet by Guerlain, Le Muguet by Goutal, Lily of The Valley by Yardley, among others).

 

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musks and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.