The Aromatic facet

In music, you can create a chord with a combination of several notes to make a unique sound. In perfumery, you can do this too by blending together several notes and ingredients together to create a distinct fragrance. This is called an accord. 

You can dress the accord with several facets. The more facets there are, the more complex the architecture of the perfume is. In order to find its way around, the Comité Français du Parfum classifies perfumes according to their olfactory family. 

The 6 olfactive families 

            The perfumer-creator can then dress each main accord of the perfume with one or more facets in order to make it more complex. The aromatic facet can be associated with all the olfactory families, it goes particularly well with the fern, woody, oriental and citrus families.

            What does the term "aromatic" mean? 

            The term "aromatic" refers to fresh herbs. As soon as the notes are dried, they are called "spices".

            The notes of the aromatic facet are subdivided into 3 distinct categories:

            • Lavender notes
            • Mint notes
            • Aniseed notes

            Lavender notes in the aromatic facet

            In perfumery, certain aromatic raw materials have lavender notes. This is notably the case of the following aromatic herbs: 

            • lavender
            • lavandin
            • rosemary
            • thyme
            • sage
            • mugwort

            • Lavender: the reference of the aromatic facet 

            Originally from the Mediterranean basin, lavender is nowadays cultivated in Bulgaria, Russia and in southern European countries such as Spain and Italy. The south of France remains the main producer. Lavender is cultivated above 1000m of altitude. The cultivation of lavender in the South of France in Grasse became big due to the beginnings of perfumery.

            There are many different varieties of lavender (lavandula stoechas, lavandula officinalis, lavandula spica). This plant has always been used by the Romans to perfume their baths, and in the Middle Ages for medicinal purposes. It symbolizes purity and tranquility.

            There is an organic lavender, the Carla lavender from France, it is cultivated in the Drôme Provençale. It is a lavender used by great chefs in cooking because it is very airy and floral.

            Generally associated with the fern family, lavender is also characteristic of eau de Colognes and perfumes for men. However, it is also present in the composition of chypre or oriental perfumes and today in some fragrances for women.

            Lavender in the aromatic facet in perfumery 

            In perfumery, lavender can be used as lavender essence by steam distillation or as lavender absolute by extraction with volatile solvents. They are very different from each other.

            This very aromatic and powerful note evokes the gardens of the South of France and summertime. Sometimes it has a slightly vintage side reminiscent of classic eaux de Cologne. It is also herbaceous, camphorated, and medicinal. Its fresh scent includes a note of bergamot, slightly floral with woody tones. The percentage of linalyl will give lavender all its olfactory quality.

            Since the second half of the 20th century, lavender production has become less prolific.
            To replace it in the industrial perfumery, lavandin was increasingly used, it is a variety of hybrid lavender but of lower quality.

             

             

            • Lavandin, a cousin of lavender

            Cousin of lavender, lavandin is a hybrid lavender variety obtained by crossing Lavandula Vera and Lavandula spica. Mainly harvested in the south of France, and cultivated since the 1930s, lavandin is widely used nowadays and is often used to replace lavender.

            Indeed, the cultivation of lavender has encountered some difficulties. However, lavandin is more productive in terms of quantity of essential oil, even if it gives an essential oil with a poorer olfactory quality than lavender. There are 3 varieties of lavandin: lavandin grosso, lavandin abrial, and lavandin Super. Lavandin grosso is the one that is cultivated the most.

            Lavandin in the aromatic facet in perfumery

            Like lavender, lavandin essence is obtained through steam distillation. This aromatic herb is more camphorous than lavender, fresh, slightly woody, spicy, it offers a less "chic" and less refined side than real lavender. This slightly soapy note is mainly used in detergents and soaps and, generally, in functional perfumery. 

            • Rosemary, an aromatic note with character 

            This aromatic herb is nowadays cultivated in Spain, Morocco and Italy (it needs arid and rocky soils to develop). Many phytotherapeutic virtues are attributed to it and it is also widely used in cooking.

            In the Middle Ages, rosemary was used to ward off evil spirits. It was also the flower of marriage in the time of Charlemagne.

            Rosemary in the aromatic facet in perfumery

            The use of rosemary in perfumery is very old (it can be found in the 17th century with L'Eau de la Reine de Hongrie which contained a lot of rosemary). Rosemary essence is obtained by distilling its leaves and flowers with steam.

            As an aromatic note, rosemary is fresh, herbaceous and camphorated. It is also woody in its evolution, powerful, lavender and bitter. It has accents of incense and animal notes. Eaux de Cologne, fragrances for men, perfumes from the citrus family, as well as fragrances with fresh notes, tend to contain rosemary (this can also be the case for oriental fragrances in top notes).

            • Thyme, a singular aromatic note 

            Used by the Egyptians and the Greeks in the form of incense, thyme comes from Europe and today comes from France, Spain and Algeria. Lemon thyme, wild thyme, and german thyme are among the many varieties of this herb.

            Thyme in the aromatic facet in perfumery

            In spring and summer, the thyme branches are dried and then steam distilled. This process produces the essence of thyme. This aromatic herb offers a very intense camphorated, herbaceous, spicy and medicinal note. It is very present in eaux de Cologne, aromatic perfumes, and certain spicy oriental perfumes.   

            • Sage, a curative aromatic note

            Herbaceous plant of the Lamiaceae family, sage is very fragrant and bushy. Native to the south of Europe, it is cultivated today in many countries such as France, countries in central Europe, Russia, the United States and China. There are two main varieties, the first one is the clary sage which is the most used in perfumery. Its scent is animalistic, woody, earthy, floral, lavender, mentholated and camphorated. The second is the sage used for infusions, also called "salvia officinalis". Its scent is herbaceous, aromatic, camphorated, terpenic and close to bergamot.

            Sage in the aromatic facet in perfumery

            The most common extraction technique to obtain sage is by steam distillation.
            This process produces the essence of sage. Sage absolute can be obtained by extraction with volatile solvents. In perfumery, sage offers a lot of tonicity to perfumes (it is often used in perfumes for men). For a long time associated with the fern families, sage can also be found in the form of absolute in chypre and oriental perfumes.
            Often used as base notes, it brings tenacity to the perfumes.
            The sage allows to obtain ambrox, a material used instead of ambergris in fragrances. 

            • Mugwort, a poisonous aromatic note

            A rare and atypical plant, mugwort from the Latin artemisia, is a perennial herbaceous plant from North Africa and the Mediterranean basin. There are nearly 300 different varieties of mugwort. The scent of this herb is herbaceous, fresh, camphorated, bitter, with a slightly poisonous note. Mugwort is mainly present in perfumes for men.

            Aniseed notes in the aromatic facet

            The aniseed notes are also part of the aromatic herbs used in the aromatic facet in perfumery. These are:

            • basil
            • tarragon
            • star anise

            • Basil

            The name "basil" comes from the Latin basilicum which means "royal". In Greco-Roman times, basil was consumed neither as an herb nor as a medicinal plant. It was solely used for ritual practices and only kings could cut their stems.

            Imported to Europe in the 16th century from India and Lebanon, basil is now cultivated in some Maghrebian countries. There are 6 varieties, each with a very different scent. Basil with large leaves has a jasmine, liquorice and lemon scent, while purple basil has peppery accents.

            Basil in the aromatic facet in perfumery

            In perfumery, basil essential oil is especially used in fresh or fern fragrances and in some chypre compositions. It is often combined with lemon or spicy notes. The herbaceous, fresh, green and slightly minty scent of basil makes it a very lively and dynamic note, which brings an aniseed effect to perfumes.

            • Tarragon, a tonic aromatic note

            Its name comes from the Latin dracunculus which means "little dragon". Tarragon was used to treat snake bites. This herb was appreciated by the maharajahs who drank it as an herbal tea.

            This herb native to Russia was imported in Spain by the Moors.
            Most of the tarragon production is nowadays gathered in France.

            Tarragon in the aromatic facet in perfumery

            In perfumery, tarragon essential oil is obtained by the distillation of the leaves with steam. Its green, herbaceous, spicy and aniseed scent is often appreciated in fresh top notes and associated with citrus, rose or cinnamon. It brings an aniseed facet to fragrances.

            • Star anise, a sunny aniseed note

            Star anise is currently mainly grown in Spain, Russia and Poland. The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of its seeds and is used in particular in the top notes in perfumery. It is very appreciated for the freshness and modernity it brings to fragrances. 

            This aromatic herb has green accents and a spicy, powerful, liquorice scent. It is notably integrated in fragrances for men and in aromatic, chypre, woody perfumes.

            The menthol notes in the aromatic facet

            In the aromatic facet you can also find minty notes:

            • peppermint
            • spearmint
            • absinth

            • Peppermint, a refreshing note

            Born from the cross between Aquatica mint and spicata mint, this variety of mint is mainly produced in Europe, Russia, Bulgaria and China. Its cold, aromatic, minty, fresh, slightly camphorated scent is also very powerful and has some balsamic notes.
            Often used in fragrances for men and eaux fraîches, peppermint is also used to accompany peppery notes in spicy fragrances. In particular, it is used to reproduce green and lavender notes as top notes in fragrances.

            • Spearmint, a chlorophyll note

            Spearmint spicata is obtained by the steam distillation of its leaves, a process that produces spearmint essence. 

            Its herbaceous, slightly spicy, fresh and green scent, as well as its tart chlorophyll scent are very much appreciated in aromatic perfumes, or ferns in top notes. This aromatic herb also brings a great freshness to the fruity notes and to the citrus fruits in fragrances. 

            • Absinthe, a legendary aromatic note

            Originally from Europe and Russia, absinthe was discovered by the Egyptians in 1600 B.C. Absinthe is mostly associated with the famous drink. Used in perfumery in the aromatic facet, the essence of absinthe is obtained by steam distillation.

            Its fresh, minty, bitter, aniseed and slightly woody scent brings a lot of power and tonicity to perfumes. It is especially used in fern or aromatic compositions and in fragrances with green notes. 

            Fragrances with aromatic facet

            There are many fragrances with aromatic facets. Here are a few of them, classified by aroma:

            Perfumes containing lavender 

            • Jicky Guerlain
            • Shalimar Guerlain
            • Habit Rouge Guerlain
            • Mon Guerlain Guerlain
            • Mouchoir de Monsieur Guerlain
            • Pour Un Homme Caron
            • Kouros Yves Saint Laurent
            • Eternity for Men Calvin Klein
            • Brin de Réglisse Hermès
            • Bleu Chanel 
            • Boy Chanel
            • Libre Yves Saint Laurent
            • Dovana Sylvaine Delacourte Paris

                Perfumes containing rosemary

                    Perfumes containing thyme

                    • L’Eau Noire Dior
                    • Eau de parfum Gucci
                    • For Him Narcisso Rodriguez
                    • Pour Homme Van Cleef & Arpels
                    • L’Heure Bleue Guerlain
                    • Eau Guerlain 
                    • L’Heure Bleue Guerlain
                    • Après L’Ondée Guerlain
                    • Infusion de Vétiver Prada
                    • 1881 Cerruti

                    Perfumes containing sage

                      Perfumes containing artemisa 

                      • Déclaration Cartier
                      • L’Eau d’Armoise Serge Lutens

                      Perfumes containing basil 

                      • Aqua Allegoria Guerlain
                      • L'Eau d'Hadrien Annick Goutal
                      • L'Eau Sauvage Dior
                      • Pour Homme Azzaro
                      • Euphoria Men Calvin Klein
                      • L’Eau L’Artisan Parfumeur
                      • At the Barber’s Margiela
                      • Tacit Aesop

                            Perfumes containing tarragon

                            Perfumes containing anis

                            • L'Instant Pour Homme Guerlain
                            • Lolita Lempicka
                            • Hypnôse pour Homme Lancôme
                            • Mandragore Annick Goutal
                            • Méchant Loup L'Artisan Parfumeur
                            • Le Mâle J.P. Gaultier
                            • Ozkan Sylvaine Delacourte Paris

                                Perfumes containing mint

                                • Homme Guerlain
                                • Géranium pour Monsieur Frédéric Malle
                                • Green Tea Elizabeth Arden
                                • Green Water Jacques Fath
                                • Booster Lacoste
                                • Roadster Cartier
                                • Lempicka green lover Lempicka
                                • Eau de Cologne Orange Verte Hermès
                                • Eau Minthé Diptyque
                                • Eau Froide Serge Lutens
                                • Aqua Celestia Forte MFK
                                • Virgin Mint Carolina Herrera 
                                • Aqua Allegoria : Herba Fresca Guerlain
                                • Valkyrie Sylvaine Delacourte Paris

                                  Other perfumes with the aromatic facet

                                  • A taste of Heaven By Killian
                                  • Fou d'absinthe L'Artisan Parfumeur
                                  • Douce-Amère Serge Lutens

                                  Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

                                  Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.