Eau de cologne

Eau de Cologne, originally used for hygiene and cleansing, is a fragrance that brings freshness and purity. Passed through generations, eau de Cologne revitalises, restores energy and vitality, and makes purification a moment of pleasure and well-being. This low-concentration scent is sprayed generously all over the body.

History of eaux de Cologne 

The first eau de Cologne appeared in the 18th century. Jean-Paul Feminis marketed for the first time perfumed waters that were then called "aqua admirabilis coloniae" or "Eau Admirable de Cologne".

After his death, he confided his secret to his nephew, Gian Maria Farina. Since then, the original eau de Cologne is still produced by the eighth generation of Gian Maria Farina's descendants in Cologne.

The dazzling success of this fragrance has inspired other companies to make their own eau de Cologne. Thus, Muelhens No. 4711, another famous eau de Cologne has been produced since 1792 until nowadays.

The virtues of eau de Cologne

At the time, eau de Cologne was composed of a mixture of various citrus fruits dissolved in wine alcohol (a high-grade alcohol). The hygienic conditions of the time were far from perfect, therefore, this kind of product was considered a miraculous water, or a panacea (just like the Queen's Water of Hungary).

Its beneficial nature was such that each bottle was accompanied by a small leaflet with the details of the use and effects of this "miraculous water". Thus, it was said that older people could swallow 50 to 60 drops of cologne mixed with wine spirit to slow down, among other things, an excessively fast heartbeat. It was also advised to breathe this fragrance for a few minutes to cure headaches.

In 1727, the medical faculty of Cologne went so far as to recognise the medicinal properties of the "Eau Admirable" made by Feminis. 

 

 

Eau de Cologne at the Imperial Court

Napoleon Bonaparte, a great user of this eau de Cologne, slipped a bottle into his boots before leaving for the countryside. It is said that he consumed an average of 43 litres of eau de Cologne per month, for himself, to perfume his apartments and for his horse.

Later, he was forced to write a prescription requiring the disclosure of the formulas for any medication. To protect the secret of the formula, eau de Cologne was prescribed for external use only and became the product we know today.

The Empress Eugenie suffered from horrible migraines and asked Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain to create an eau de Cologne that was very fresh but very calming. He did it masterfully, using a high dose of petit-grain, the essential oil of orange blossom with calming properties. The Empress had the exclusive right to use it until she gave Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain permission to sell this eau de Cologne. This eau de Cologne had great success and the perfumer was awarded the title of Official Supplier of the Imperial Court by Napoleon III. This magnificent bottle, decorated with bees (the 69 bees symbolising the Empire), is sold today all over the world. For Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, it was the beginning of his fame that lasted over five generations of perfumers.

The traditional structure of eau de Cologne is made up of tonic top notes: bergamot, lemon, orange, neroli, petit grain, mandarin, grapefruit, sometimes with a few spices, such as verbena, and orange blossom. Eau de Cologne contains 4 to 6% concentration. Today there can be added some synthetic notes for better tenacity.

Real eaux de Cologne (such as Eau de Cologne Impériale, Eau de Cologne du Coq) consist of 99% natural products, that explains their low tenacity.

From the second half of the 20th century, eaux fraîches appeared, drawing their inspiration from eaux de Cologne. They have slightly chypre (moss or patchouli), woody (vetiver or cedar) and floral base notes, with an addition of the famous "Hédione" from Firmenich. The latter contributed to making the fresh notes for Eau Sauvage by Dior, Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain, Eau de Rochas by Rochas etc. Thanks to their faceted construction, these eaux fraîches become much more tenacious and diffusive.

The classic eau de Cologne 

Classic eau de Cologne is made exclusively from natural raw materials and contains 2-6% concentrate in 60° alcohol. Its citrus-based notes are entirely volatile and provide an intense sensation of freshness. Its heart and base notes are very discreet and therefore give only a light and fleeting scent. An eau de Cologne does not prevent it from being perfumed with its usual scent, and its format makes it useful for the whole family.

The new eaux de Cologne 

The new eaux de Cologne are products that keep the traditional structure of the eau de Cologne with all its indicatives (citrus, petit grain, orange blossom), but benefit from the new synthetic molecules that allow the tenacity and diffusion of the fragrance. These eaux de Cologne also have more base notes: spices, woods, musky notes. Oranzo From Sylvaine Delacourte's Orange Blossom Collection is an example (concentration between 5% and 10% approximately).

 

The modern eau de Cologne

We are currently witnessing the arrival of ultra-modern, transparent, refreshing eaux de Cologne with a musky trail. Among them is CK One by Calvin Klein. With its eau de Cologne air, it adds a tonic accord, a very specific tea note borrowed from the eau de toilette of the Thé de Bulgari fragrance.

Other eaux de Cologne in the same style : Eau de Cologne by Thierry Mugler, Eaux de Cologne Dior, Cologne d'Allure Homme Sport by Chanel, Eau de Cologne du Parfumeur by Guerlain and La Cuvée Secrète by Guerlain. There are also very fresh fragrances such as Aquas Allegories line by Guerlain or Smeraldo from Musk Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte, a fresh and vegetal fragrance.

 

Other perfume concentrations

In perfumery there are many other fragrances in addition to eau de Cologne with varying degrees of alcohol concentration, such as : 

Perfume extract has volume and presence. A few drops are enough to obtain a perfect, tenacious and stable fragrance. You can apply perfume extract directly on the skin on a daily basis. Its intimate scent will be felt by the person wearing it, and by those who are very closeby.

The raw materials are orchestrated to obtain an intense heart and base notes. The essential oils are weighed and combined to form a concentrate, which is then diluted in alcohol. Perfume extracts in general contain 20 to 40% concentrate, in 98° vol. alcohol.

The perfume extract gives the true soul of the perfume, the richest and most concentrated product. Nowadays, only a few perfume houses still sell it.

Also called "Esprit de parfum" or "Parfum de toilette", eau de parfum is a complementary derivative of the perfume extract. It is a product that combines both trail and tenacity, thus an excellent compromise. It contains 7 to 30% concentrate, in an alcohol at 90° vol. Applied to clothes, it offers a remarkable wake (fragile fabrics such as silk should be avoided). The 15 fragrances of Sylvaine Delacourte are eaux de parfum from 15% to 20%).

Fresher and richer in fast-release top notes, the eau de toilette can be applied on clothes. As eau de toilette  has a limited shelf life, it complements the perfume extract. It contains 6 to 20 % of concentrate, in an 80° vol alcohol.

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.