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Patchouli, the magic leaf

Origin of patchouli

The patchouli leaf or patchouly.
Botanical family: Pogostemon of the Lamiaceae family.

The name patchouli appeared at the beginning of the 19th century and is probably a combination of the terms patch (green) and ilai (leaves), or leaf (in English). It is also said to come from the Tamil paccilai meaning green leaf.

Originally from Southeast Asia, its main producers are Indonesia, South India, China, Madagascar and the Philippines.
The world production of patchouli is about 1600 tons of essential oil. 90% of it comes from Indonesia where patchouli is called Nilam.

Patchouli is the most widely used raw material in perfumery except for citrus. Patchouli is a plant that looks very much like a large shrub about one metre tall with leaves resembling those of the mint.
The plant has a firm, hairy stem, large, fragrant, downy leaves and white flowers with a purple tinge.
The fresh plant almost doesn’t smell, it gives off its scent when the leaves are left to dry for about 5 to 6 days, preferably in the shade to prevent them from fermenting.

It first arrived in England and took pride of place in the potpourri on the table of the salons of the bourgeoisie and perfumers in the Victorian era, but then it lost popularity.
Then it came to France, the cocottes of the Second Empire were offered cashmere shawls from India scented with patchouli. Indeed, the leaves were slipped into these shawls to keep them free of moths during transportation. It was then chic to wear these beautiful shawls both for their exotic beauty and for their smell.

In the 1970s, hippies burned patchouli sticks or perfumed themselves with simple patchouli essences sold in small bottles, one drop was enough to perfume themselves.
Almost pure, presented as a vegetable oil, patchouli perfume was a gesture to mark a spirit of rebellion and freedom.
This fashion has considerably damaged its reputation. Many people took exception to the smell of overdosed patchouli, which perhaps covered up the scent of another herb that was widely used at the time.

 

Patchouli processing

The patchouli leaves are processed by steam distillation for about 8 hours.
The molecule responsible for the smell of patchouli is called patchoulol, about 40% of it is contained in the essential oil.

It takes 250kg of fresh patchouli to produce 50kg of dry patchouli and 1kg of essential oil. The average duration of operation of a patchouli plant is 2 to 3 years.

Main constituents: Patchoulol, Norpatchoulénol, Nortecyclopatchoulol.

 

 

Olfactory description of patchouli

There is only one botanical variety of patchouli but depending on the terroir the scent can be different.
Patchouli has a woody, earthy, humid, dark smell and evokes a colour between brown and black. A camphor note molecule is identified in it, it also has almost a dusty scent. Patchouli can be reminiscent of a cork or an overripe apple, some find it smells like mushrooms, cellars and mould.
Many perfumers have told me that they can detect a hint of cocoa in good quality patchouli.

 

Use of patchouli

Patchouli is the most important raw material in perfumery and is used in both men's and women's fragrances.
Patchouli has a woody note that combines beautifully with other woody notes, such as vetiver, sandalwood or cedar.

It brings depth and sensuality and is considered by some to be an aphrodisiac, especially when combined with sweet oriental notes such as incense, vanilla and cistus.
Patchouli can be refreshed by citrus fruits such as bergamot. It is often associated with rose, sometimes with jasmine, a little less with ylang-ylang. Patchouli is also a perfect match for gourmand notes.

Patchouli is a rather dark aromatic note that brings a lot of character, depth, but also brings out the freshness. It is a sublimator, rich, sensual and charismatic, often replacing mosses in chypre constructions and is essential in oriental compositions. It is always present in woody fragrances.

The essence, or essential oil of patchouli, means that the leaves have been processed by distillation. There is now a product called patchouli heart, 80 kg of essential oil gives 50 kg of patchouli heart. The essential oil of patchouli is thus rid of dusty notes, this patchouli essence is cleaned, lightened, more modern and nervous and giving a more powerful trail, treated by the fractional distillation process.

I first discovered it in the development of Guerlain's l'Instant pour Homme fragrance, created with my beloved friend Beatrice Piquet from IFF. 
Since 2018 it also exists at the supplier LMR, an organic quality, certified for Life.
The brief at the time was to work on a chiaroscuro effect with a contrast given by the aniseed-like freshness of the arak drink on a patchouli, oriental base, associated with an addictive and suave cocoa, which is much better on the skin than on olfactory touches.

 

Fragrances with patchouli

  • Rose Barbare Guerlain
  • Mitsouko Guerlain
  • Petite Robe Noire Guerlain
  • Instant Homme Guerlain
  • Gentlemen Givenchy
  • Chypre fatal Guerlain
  • Angel et A men Mugler
  • Opium YSL
  • Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
  • Polo original Ralph Lauren
  • White patchouli Tom Ford
  • Noir Tom Ford
  • Patchouli Absolu Tom Ford
  • La Panthère Cartier
  • Prada Amber Prada
  • Tempo Diptyque
  • Eau du Soir Sisley
  • Aromatic Elixir Clinique
  • Patchouli Reminiscence
  • Coromandel Chanel
  • Patchouli Impérial Dior
  • Patchouli Intense Nicolaï
  • Patchouli de minuit Givenchy
  • Portrait Of a Lady Frédéric Malle
  • Luxe Patchouli Comme Des Garçons
  • Monsieur Frédéric Malle
  • Noir Patchouli Histoires de Parfums
  • Bornéo 1834 Serge Lutens
  • Patchouli Patch Artisan Parfumeur

 

Use of patchouli in medicine

Patchouli has medicinal properties and is used in aromatherapy.
The use of the plant in infusion is effective against bad digestion, intestinal disorders, and it is an anti-inflammatory.
It is a venous tonic, an excellent stimulant for heavy legs.

Patchouli is also used in the West Indies against colds, headaches and vomiting.
It is also an antifungal, fighting infections caused by fungi and yeast, and a sedative that numbs the central nervous system and soothes pain.
Thanks to its antiseptic and healing action, it treats wounds, haemorrhoids and skin conditions (acne, eczema), it also relieves itching and insect bites.
Finally, patchouli is an excellent natural tranquilizer that is effective against headaches, stress, anxiety, depression and insomnia.

 

Patchouli in Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes

You can discover patchouli in Helicriss from the Musk Collection as well as in Ozkan from the Orange Blossom Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte.
You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.