Lavender-based perfumes, how to reinvent them?

Lavender is so well known and familiar, we rarely talk about it anymore.
It is present in our memories, from childhood to holidays, and often linked to the south of France. 
It reminds us of the smell of clean sheets and can be associated with Marseille soap. 

Virtues of lavender

Its medicinal virtues have been known since antiquity.
Lavender was a major ingredient used in embalming and it has been used for a very long time to perfume linen.
Its name comes from the Latin lavare (to wash). Lavender was used abundantly to eradicate diseases by perfuming them, for example during the plague.

The story of the 4 thieves vinegar 

This story goes back to Toulouse in the 17th century. 
Ravaged by the plague, four thieves repeatedly stole from contaminated houses, never backing away from the corpses and managed to never get infected. 
After being arrested and sentenced to death, they were offered a deal.
Their lives would be saved if they revealed the secret immunizing liquid they smeared all over their bodies to avoid the plague. 
The 4 thieves confessed and revealed the magic recipe. It was thyme, lavender, rosemary and sage macerated in vinegar.

In the 19th century, Maille, a vinegar distiller, patented the formula to sell it on the market. They targeted their approach and recommended the product to nuns, priests and doctors. 
They suggested drinking a glass of water with a spoon of the liquid on an empty stomach and to rub it on your temples before visiting your patients.

Today, it is still used for its effect on migraines and colds because it naturally contains camphor. Lavender is used in the Alps when dogs are bitten by insects or snakes. 
They rub the lavender where the animal was bitten and the venom is immediately neutralized.

Lavender is also used as antiseptic for healing scarce, as an anti-rheumatic, anti-migraine, bactericidal vermifuge, anti-bronchitis, diuretic, cardiac tonic, insomnia and against lice. In infusion, it supports digestion and sleep. Its perfume seduces bees and they create lavender honey.

 

 

Aromatic families of lavender

There are 3 main subdivisions: 

• Lavender notes: lavender, lavandin, hyssop, rosemary, thyme, sage, sagebrush.
• Aniseed notes: basil, tarragon, star anise, fennel.
• Mint notes: pouliot mint, fried and peppery.

Lavender in the world

Lavender is appreciated all over the world. It’s very common in England but totally unknown in Japan. For Japanese, lavender scent is very exotic. 
It is very appreciated in Brazil. There is an important religious festival called the Lavagem do Bonfim in Bahia where the scent of lavender pervades the whole city. The festival takes place in January, the baianas are dressed in white and scented with lavender to go to church.

Initially, lavender was planted in wild lands, where no cultivation was possible.
Already known to the Egyptians for its therapeutic virtues, it grows spontaneously in the drier regions of Provence in France.

In the middle of the 18th century, thanks to the development of perfume factories in Grasse, the demand for aromas became more and more important. Farmers could harvest up to 250kg to 300kg of lavender per day. 
It became so intense that people decided to cultivate it.
The creation of a hybrid plant, the lavandin, was created around the 20th century. 
It is a variety that grows at a low altitude of 200 meters.

Lavender production

Lavender can today be found in Russia, Bulgaria and Australia, but in larger quantities in Italy, Spain and of course in France. France is one of the main suppliers of lavender.
It can be found on the Valensole plateau in the Alpes of Haute Provence, southwest of Digne in the Drôme, and also in the heart of the Roanne valley at 600m of altitude.
The harvest is done from mid-July to mid-August.

Beware, the lavender is threatened and sometimes destroyed. It can be destroyed by phytoplasma, a very contagious disease that weakens lavender and turns it into hay. 
Some producers are affected and can lose up to half of their harvest. 
It used to be treated with very effective pesticides that has been forbidden to protect the bees.

New methods have emerged with the help of Grieppam and Givaudan. 
They are committed to the creation of specific varieties, anti-insect and more resistant in greenhouses. The first trials have been very positive.

The essential oil is obtained by distillation. Lavender absolute can also be obtained by extraction with volatile solvents. It can be recognized by its small stem of about 30 to 40 cm and its scattered spike of flowers.
Lavender is harvested and dried for two to three days before being distilled. This accentuate the coumarin side (which is contained in the composition) and the soft amber tone of the lavender.

Main constituents of lavender

Ethers of linalyl and geranyl, geraniol, linalol, limonene camphor, coumarin, i pinene buthydric and valerian ethers.
Note that it is the percentage of linalyl that will give it its olfactive quality.

 

 

Lavandin

Lavandin is a hybrid species of lavender and is the result of a cross between lavender (Lavandula Vera) and aspic (Lavandula spica).

The stem is higher, about 50 to 80 cm, and is characterized by two lateral branches, placed at the bottom, it grows only at low altitude.
The flowers are generally larger than those of lavender.
Several varieties exist: lavandin super, grosso, abrialis and sumian. 

During harvest the stems are picked up with large tractors, the stems and leaves are treated by distillation the same day.
Lavandin is more camphorous than lavender, a little woody, less chic and refined which is why lavandin is used in soaps and softeners.
Other less noble aromatic ingredients in the same tones as lavender are aspic, hyssop and rosemary.

Towards new creations around lavender

So far it has been used extensively in classic eaux de Cologne and in fougère, chypre or amber accords.
Lavender could be a new source of inspiration for perfumers if dared to be reinvented with new, unexpected associations and revisited in a more contemporary way.
For example, marrying purple flowers such as iris, violet, heliotrope and lavender with chocolate, liquorice, almond or solar notes. 
It could also be transformed into more feminine fragrances, as it is usually more associated with masculine or unisex fragrances. 

Perfumes with lavender

• Mouchoir de Monsieur from Guerlain
• Jicky from Guerlain
• English Lavender from Yardley 
• English Fern from Penhaligon's
• Sagua Lavenda Puigseiva from Alfazema
• Pour un Homme from Caron
• Azzaro pour Homme
• Heritage from Guerlain
• Lavender Palm from Tom Ford
• Encens from Serge Lutens
• Lavande from Serge Lutens
• Le Mâle from Gaultier
• Luna Rossa from Prada
• Jersey  Chanel

Lavender in Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes

You can find lavender in Dovana and Florentina from Sylvaine Delacourte's Musk Collection. Try the perfumes with the Musk Discovery Box or discover other iconic raw materials with the Vanilla and Orange Blossom Discovery Boxes.