Eau fraîche

What is an eau fraîche?

In the second half of the 20th century, cologne inspired the creation the eau fraîche. Its composition is finer and more tenacious than the one of conventional perfumes. Moreover, it dissipates better and is not formulated like a classic cologne; it is 99% natural. Even if eaux fraiches contain a lot of natural raw materials, the synthetic molecules allow to boost the freshness and, above all, the long-lasting freshness effect.

An eau fraîche  often has light chypre (for example, moss or patchouli) and woody (vetiver or cedar) base notes, as well as jasmine and synthetic notes, in particular, thanks to the famous Hedione of Firmenich (comes from jasmine), which contributed to the fresh notes fragrance persistence of perfumes (concentration of eau fraiche can be from 6% to 15%).

The first perfumes called “Eau fraîche" were Eau Sauvage by Dior, Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain, Eau de Rochas by Rochas, Eau de Lancôme by Lancôme

Eau Sauvage was a revolution in perfumery, many women borrowed it from their man because it was a new olfactory form based on freshness.

Eau fraîche and hesperide (citrus) family 

Let us remember that perfume is a complex structure consisting of several components that combine to create an "accord" (the main accord determines the main theme of the perfume, which may be complexified by one or more facets). 

In addition, perfumes are classified into 6 different olfactory families in perfumery (according to the Comité Français du Parfum):

• the citrus family
• the floral family
• the amber or oriental family
• the chypre family
• the woody family
• the fougère family

Eaux fraîches rather belong to the citrus family, which is very often dressed with a chypre facet, or a Nouvelle Fraîcheur facet. The aromatic facet often accompanies the fraiche scheme. Eaux fraîches are found in both perfumes for men and for women, but are often considered as unisex scents.

Eau fraîche in the olfactory pyramid

The olfactory pyramid in perfumery is a diagram used to depict the organization of the top notes (which are at the apex of the pyramid), heart notes (in the heart), and base notes (at its base). These different notes interact and react to each other. This diagram allows a perfumer to organize and harmonize his/her fragrance, as well as its evaporation. 

The citrus facet is in the heart of the eaux fraîches. It’s present in almost all the eaux fraîches fragrances in its top notes. It is therefore a very volatile and not very tenacious facet, similar to eaux fraîches. The specificity of Eaux fraîches fragrances is to have a long-lasting freshness, unlike real eaux de Cologne that are very ephemeral.

When to use an eau fraîche?

Due to its freshness and sparkle, eau fraîche are particularly suitable for hot days. For example, in summer, you usually choose more dynamic fragrance than the one you usually use. This eau fraîche will give you such a desired touch of vitality. Moreover, an eau fraîche may be used if you want just to change your scent according to your mood, or during your holidays or weekends. This allows you to take a break and change your scent style. This perfume will bring a real sparkle, vivacity, energy and will respond to your desire for tonic and delicate freshness.

For example, you can enjoy wearing rich or charismatic scents all year round (then that would be your "signature scent"). These fragrances seem to be enveloping and reassuring because they reflect your deepest identity. An eau fraîche would be the perfect choice for a "transition" fragrance.

If we compare perfumery with makeup, then it will be an issue of transition from very complex makeup, the one with smoky eyes and bright lipstick, to nude and more natural makeup.

Institutional eaux fraîches

They include some very famous "institutional" brands of eau fraîche:

• Eau sauvage Dior 
• Eau Guerlain
• O Lancôme
• Eau Hermès 
• Eau d’Orange Verte Hermès 
• Eau Cartier
• Eau Givenchy 
• Eau fraîche Dior 
• Les Eaux Fraîches Roger Gallet
• Les Eaux de Politesse Serge Lutens

There are some other fragrances that can be considered as eau fraîche:

• Les Aqua Allegoria Guerlain
• Eau Dynamisante Clarins
• Eau de Soleil Blanc Tom Ford
• Néroli Portofino Tom Ford
• Les Escales Dior
• Les Jardins Hermès 
• Les Eaux de Cologne Atelier Cologne : Orange sanguine 
• Citron Noir Hermès
• Yuzu man Caron
• Dimanche à la Campagne Guerlain
• Bronze Goddess Estée Lauder
• Ck One Calvin klein
• Thé Bulgari
• Oranzo Sylvaine Delacourte 
• Smeraldo Sylvaine Delacourte

There are no specific rules in relation to eaux fraîches. That is why every brand can call its products eau fraiche, eau de toilette or eau de parfum.

Eau fraîche scheme

To create an eau fraîche, perfumers often use a scheme called the "main accord" of the fragrance, or the "DNA of the original fragrance", which is later reworked and mixed with very fresh notes.

The pattern of an eau fraîche is essentially the combination of fresh, often citrusy notes with woody and chypre notes with great tenacity. The following facets will allow you to personalise and bring more singularity to the fragrance.

• Citrus notes
• Green or herbal notes: cut grass notes
• Marine, oceanic, or iodized notes
• Fresh floral notes: peony, freesia, sweet peas, lily of the valley, lilac
• Fresh fruit notes: melon, watermelon, pear, apple
• Aromatic, mint, anise, or lavender notes
• Aldehyde notes
  

Eaux fraîches

Eaux fraîches for men

There are many variations of eaux fraiches in men's fragrances:

• HommeCologne Dior
• L’Homme Idéal Cologne Guerlain
• L’homme Idéal Cool Guerlain
• Le Beau Mâle Jean Paul Gaultier
• L’Homme Ultime Yves Saint Laurent

Eaux fraîches for women

There are several variations of eaux fraîches created on the basis of the classics of perfumery in women's fragrances:

• Chance Eau vive Chanel
• Chance Eau fraîche Chanel
• Shalimar Souffle de Parfum Guerlain
• Eau fraîche Addict Dior
• Eaux fraîches de Mugler, Caudalie, Nuxe, Miu Miu, La Vie Est Belle et Sisley
  
  

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musks and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.