Mandarin
Mandarin in perfumery is a very sunny citrus note. This citrus has more character than bergamot, and is also more bitter and greener. This note is different because its scent is impregnated with the skin of the citrus fruit, it brings a big smile to the fragrance. Mandarin has a very slight characteristic medicinal undertone. It is a citrus fruit that signs a composition. There are different varieties of mandarins, the primary essence is called green, and there are also yellow and red mandarin qualities.
The name mandarin came from China, where the fruit was once given as a gift to Mandarins during the holidays. During the Chinese New Year, the mandarin is considered as a symbol of abundance. It is often used as a decoration and given as a gift to family and friends. This citrus fruit native to China was introduced to Europe in the 19th century, much later than the orange tree.
Origins of mandarin
Botanical name of the mandarin : Citrus Reticulata
Botanical family of the mandarin: Rutaceae
Mandarin is the result of a cross between the citrus madurensis and the citrus reticulate. Almost all countries in the Mediterranean basin, such as Spain and Italy, cultivate mandarins, as well as the countries in South America, such as Brazil and Argentina. Mandarin trees are grown in tropical and subtropical regions.
The name tangerine comes from the city of Tangier in Morocco, where it is intensively cultivated. The tangerine is a citrus fruit that is very similar to the mandarin. Its bark is darker and peels more easily.
The clementine, which is often confused with the tangerine, is in fact a cross between the sweet orange and the tangerine.The difference is that it has no seeds. It grows on a tree that can reach 3 to 4 metres high. It is quite fragile and can freeze easily if it is too cold.
Processing and manufacturing of mandarin raw material
Like almost all citrus fruits, mandarin essence is obtained by cold expression. The peel is crushed by machines that harvest the precious nectar it contains.
Olfactive description of the mandarin
Mandarin is a very faceted citrus fruit with a lot of relief: fresh, gentle, lively, sparkling, acidic, aldehydic, a little sweet, joyful and solar.
Use of mandarin in perfumery
Mandarin essence is often associated with eaux de Cologne and eaux fraîches. It brings freshness to the top notes. This citrus note is very long-lasting, so it can be smelled even in the heart notes.
It can be combined with all olfactory families and particularly well with oriental fragrances.
Main constituents of mandarin
The main constituents of mandarin are D-limonene, linalool, terpinene gamma, pinenes (alpha and beta).
Perfumes containing mandarin
Mandarin is a prominent note in L'Instant by Guerlain, developed by Maurice Roucel and created in collaboration with Sylvaine Delacourte. This exotic white floral fragrance for women is composed of jasmine, tuberose and magnolia, with a sensual and oriental base note of vanilla created with benzoin resin. It has a very present woody note of sandalwood. In short, it is a sunny Guerlinade.
Mandarin goes particularly well with white flowers, especially orange blossom (cf. Orange Blossom Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte).
- Aqua Allegoria Mandarine-Basilic by Guerlain
- Chant d’arômes by Guerlain
- Cuir beluga by Guerlain
- Mandarine tout simplement by L’Artisan Parfumeur
- Mandarine Mandarin by Serge Lutens
- Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Cologne
- Green Lover by Lolita Lempicka
- Infusion de Mandarine by Prada
- Mandarine Ambrée by Hermès
Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.