Bespoke perfume and consultation

Since 2006, I have been in charge of the perfume consultation for the creation of custom-made perfumes. From now on, I work with Thierry Wasser, following this consultation, I share with him an extremely precise brief. And very quickly, we are able to propose two or three perfume options. Some alterations are always to be made, but the development time is quite short: a few months, but it takes about 9 months for delivery, indeed the longest is the toxicological test, essential to guarantee the perfect harmlessness of the perfume, the test is identical to the one done for a big perfume launch. My customers are mainly from Europe, both men and women.

We deliver two litres of perfume in the beautiful Baccarat Jicky bottle, which can be decorated with precious stones or other decorations. And 20 other 30ml and 60ml bottles presented in a beautiful leather trunk. If the customer wishes, we can of course store the bottles in a cold room at the customer's disposal. Of course, the customer can name it as he or she wishes, but we often find a name together.

The formula will belong to the customer for life. The price starts at 37,000 euros, which is obviously a lot of money, but it's all relative, since it's the price of a haute couture dress.

And here is the olfactory "shrink"

I was lucky enough to have an article in Le Point, but unfortunately, that week there was a distribution strike in the newsstands. Here is the content of this article written by Audrey Levy.

Mrs. R., as Guerlain's customers are discreetly referred to, has always sought out the woody scent of the forests of her childhood in Montreal, the flavour of the maple syrup her father used to make in an old cabin. "I loved Shalimar, Samsara, the chypre side of Mitsouko," says the Canadian businesswoman. When a consultant suggested creating her own perfume, to rediscover the scents she had dreamed of, she didn't hesitate for a second. She is not alone. Since Guerlain launched this service four years ago, about twenty wealthy businessmen from all over Europe, coquettes from Japan or Russia, and princesses from the Middle East have given in to this ultimate luxury. "It's a tradition at Guerlain," says Thierry Wasser, the house's famous nose. As far back as 1828, Pierre François Pascal, the founder, composed fragrances at the request of celebrities: Balzac for the writing of "César Birotteau", the Empress Eugénie, Sarah Bernhardt, Diaghilev, Joséphine Baker.

In his cosy living room in the Place Vendôme, Lorenz Bäumer grabs his miniature spray bottle and sprays himself frantically. He has agreed to give his name; it is true that he is part of the company. He is the artistic director of Louis Vuitton's high jewellery collections, a subsidiary of LVMH like Guerlain. The jeweller places the bottle on the corner of the table, admires it from every angle and starts again. "I've been waiting for six months, my coffret should be ready in a few days." His coffret? Not one of his next creations, but the custom-made perfume that the house of Guerlain has concocted for him. A Baccarat bottle of 500 millilitres that contains his olfactory memories, his emotions. A unique scent, like its price: 37,000 euros.

Two more spritzes on the wrists and all over the room, Lorenz Bäumer (Mr. B.) does not stop. His office smells. For him, it's not just any smell. It tastes like his past. "It's his olfactory portrait, the portrait of his life materialised in the form of a fragrance", explains Sylvaine Delacourte, the expert, Director of Perfume Development at Guerlain, because Sylvaine knows how to summon memories and transform them into sweet olfactory reminiscences.

It all starts with a 'personal consultation'. A first step, similar to a visit to a shrink's couch. In the padded boudoir of 68 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Sylvaine receives people in an elegant manner. She has not been trained. Just two years with a psychologist to familiarise herself with the tools of analysis. "The methods I use are similar to those used in the series "Lie to Me" (which features a scientist specialising in lie detection, editor's note)," she confides. Her method? Awake hypnosis, in which she immerses you, almost without your knowledge, to bring buried memories to the surface. "I have relieved scenes that I thought had been erased forever," says Mrs. R. "I felt the smell of the shawl that my grandmother used to hold tightly to her chest when she took us to school. "Sylvaine, you shouldn't kidding her. Some clients get carried away and embellish their past, she says. I see it in their eyes and gestures. I am there to lead them towards authenticity. "At first, we were a bit doubtful. "Remember your childhood," she begins. "What are the smells that have marked you?" Sylvaine puts you at ease. Like you, she crosses her arms, sinks into the soft armchair where you would prefer to disappear, gives an approving look, sketches a smile full of empathy. Caught up in the game, you say: "The smell of waxed wood in the classrooms, the slightly lemony scent of the yellow soap that used to fry your fingers..." "Strange, school was not what we liked. A happy moment?" she continues. You search deep in your memory. And suddenly, memories come flooding back: "The almond flavour of Cleopatra's glue, of course, the bituminous smell of the pavements in the summer after the rain, the pungent smell of fox skins in my father's workshop...". She stops you. A few snippets are enough for her.

Magic formula

An hour later, iPad in hand, she shows you images. Snowy landscapes, green forests, vanilla beans, chocolate chips. The choice is yours. This is where she bluffs you. She already knows which ones you'll remember: the laundry drying in the open air, the cleanliness that reminds you of the soap you mentioned, she says, the wet lather, a note of freshness. Suddenly she stands up, shakes vials, arranges the accords and raw materials and has you sniff a first sample. Incredible! It's the smell you've been looking for all your life, but never found the words to describe. But you still have to wait two years. The time to send the composition to Thierry Wasser, who will work in his laboratory to perfect the magic formula. Two or three more fittings to reach perfection. And one year for the results of the toxicology tests. "Months and months of scientific research that justify the price of the service", assures Thierry Wasser. Whatever the case, customers are prepared to wait - and pay - before tasting the absolute nectar. "We touch the exceptional. It's like buying a colour, the recipe belongs to you for life," says Mr B. "You'll be the only one wearing it and you won't leave anyone indifferent. As if that wasn't enough, the jeweller has given himself a new composition for the winter. With each spray, you inspire a whiff of happy memories and impose your personality on everyone's nose. "It's my olfactory double, I feel strong, sure of myself, I can't do without it anymore", confides the Canadian.

Sylvaine Delacourte remembers the Qatari princess who was moved by the iris roots she gave her to keep her waiting - "the only rarity she could never afford". Or the Russian who was allergic and hadn't worn perfume for twelve years, or the customer who wanted to recreate the smell of his grandfather's factory. There is also the gentleman who had saved up for months to impress his beautiful wife who was blowing out her 30 candles. And this Lebanese woman, who was won over and had her whole family enrolled. "I convinced her son that with this perfume he could seduce girls," says Sylvaine. A real eau des merveilles.

Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.