Trendy natural green notes
If you had a grandfather or someone close to you who, as a child, took you to his garden to pick peas with a tender eye, if you had the privilege of shelling freshly picked green beans. You also loved the smell of cut grass and nasturtium flowers. The smell of leaves crumpled on your hands. If all these smells bring back good memories, move you, then you are a good candidate for the green notes. All of these scents are symbols of spring, of nature bursting with dew and sap. Here are three natural raw materials and are making a strong comeback in niche fragrances.
Galbanum
The spirit of the plant
Galbanum is mentioned in ancient Egypt 2000 years before Christ, for the creation of different types of incense.
Galbanum is a milky-white gum, when just run off, it comes from an umbelliferous plant (a form of coloured umbrella) with yellow flowers. Native to Central Asia, galbanum is a plant about 1 m high. It comes from Iran, but can also be found in Turkey and Afghanistan. It requires a sunny climate.
Olfactory description of galbanum
Classified as a green note, I would even say dark green, it is as herbaceous as it is fresh, bitter as it is balsamic. It is also vegetal and earthy, resinous, rising and powerful. It requires a perfect dosage or dressing to give harmonious effects.
In perfumery
Galbanum can also be used to recreate green floral notes such as hyacinth, narcissus or gardenia. Galbanum can also be used in chypre perfumes. It is processed by distillation.
- Vent Vert Balmain
- N°19 Chanel
- Christalle Chanel
- Bel respiro Chanel
- Vol de Nuit Guerlain
- Chamade Guerlain
- Miss Dior Dior
- Untitled Margiela
- Bas de Soie Serge Lutens
- Eau de lierre Diptyque
- Eau de campagne Sisley
Lentisk
The spirit of the plant
The mastic tree is a small Mediterranean shrub. This beautiful material, which the Egyptians loved, has gone through the ages, fallen into disuse and has just been rehabilitated. Like galbanum, it is difficult to tame.
Its Latin name "lentiscus" means "mastic tree", and its plant produces pretty red flowers that slowly turn black. The arrival of its buds generally marks the end of spring.
The resin of the Pistachio tree, commonly called mastic, is becoming increasingly important in perfumery, but also in medicine and food.
How to obtain lentisk
The essential oil of Lentisque Pistachio is obtained by steam distillation of the leaves and fruits of the plant. It can also be obtained by molecular distillation, a method that produces more modern, purer products.
Olfactory description of lentisk
Green, resinous, turpentine-like odour, a little bit of tobacco, a little tea nuance.
Aromatic principles
Gamma terpinene, Limonene, Alpha pinene, Myrcene, Terpinene, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool.
In perfumery
The pistachio lentisque has a fresh, lively, very "textured" and green fragrance with strong accents of resin and turpentine. Its scent is reminiscent of the Corsican scrubland or garrigue.
- Corsica Furiosa Parfum d'Empire
- Smeraldo Sylvaine Delacourte
Angelica
The spirit of the plant
I knew about angelica because my mother used to order a cake every Sunday covered with candied angelica sticks, and I used to eat only the pieces of angelica that ran across the top of the cake, which looked like grasshoppers. This bitter/green/cruel/sweet acidic mix gave me the idea for the creation of Angélique Noire for Guerlain, a co-creation with Daniéla Andrier. The Archangel Michael during an apparition explained the protective properties of the plant, hence its name: Angelica.
Archangelica, which means angelica, is native to Europe and Siberia and is cultivated in France, Belgium and Germany. It is a member of the Umbelliferae family and likes humid regions.
The essential oil is obtained by distillation. Two parts are of interest, the seeds and the roots or stems.
Olfactory description of angelica
The essential oil of the seeds is green, slightly aniseed, musky, spicy, hay, cedar. The essential oil of the roots is very aromatic, aldehydic, green, and raw.
In perfumery
- Angélique sous la Pluie Frédéric Malle
- Angelique Noire Guerlain
- Smeraldo Sylvaine Delacourte
Green notes in Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes
You can find green notes in Smeraldo from the Sylvaine Delacourte Musks Collection.
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.