Sesame in perfumery
Sesame is a word immortalised in the tales of the Arabian Nights, "Sesame, open up" in the story Ali Baba and the 40 Thieves. The connection between the sesame seed and the origin highlighted in this tale, such as a password or a letter of recommendation for opening a very restricted passage or place, is rather obscure.
In the 6th century BC, it is reported that wealthy Assyrians used sesame oil for skin care. Sesame seeds have played an everyday role since ancient times. It is a plant that opens the door to our appetite and our nostrils.
Origin of sesame
Botanical name: Sesamum indicum
Native to Central Africa and the Orient, sesame is a member of the Pedaliaceae family.
Sesame comprises 36 species and is now found in 60 countries, with Indian sesame being the most widely used variety.
The plant is 60 cm to 2 metres high and has many capsules that look like wolf's mouths, containing the sesame seeds, about 60 small oil seeds that look like flax seeds. The flowers are white or wine-coloured.
They can be eaten when they are dehydrated, roasted, blond, brown or black or pressed into oil.
Sesame oil can be cold extracted for cosmetics or hot for industrial use.
Use of sesame
Sesame is widely used in Southeast Asian cuisine to add flavour to dishes. In Japan, toasted sesame seeds are mixed with salt to make Gomasio.
In the Middle East sesame seeds are pureed to make the famous Tahini.
Sesame is very popular in the Middle East and India in cooking and also in Ayurvedic medicine.
Olfactive description of sesame in perfumery
Sesame’s fragrance in perfumery is very faithful to the seed that we consume. It is both exotic and spicy, with an unsweetened gourmand facet with the smell of caramelised hazelnuts. Sesame has effects of warm bread, maple syrup, coffee and peanuts.
Sesame is rarely used in perfumery. It is now available as a natural product. It goes particularly well with vanilla, woody and oriental notes (see Oriental facet, Woody facet).
Processing of the sesame raw material
To be used in perfumery, sesame is most often treated by CO2 extraction, a process that allows it to preserve its original scent (see CO2 extraction).
Virtues of sesame
Sesame seed is rich in lipids and unsaturated fatty acids. It can be used in cosmetics because it is very nourishing and brings softness to the skin.
Rich in antioxidants such as vitamin E, it combats cell ageing.
Sesame reduces blood pressure, which is beneficial for cardiovascular and intestinal health.
Sesame seed stimulates intellectual activity and memory, it is rich in lignans which play a role similar to that of oestrogen.
Sesame seed is a source of minerals and remineralizing trace elements and fiber, 60 ml of sesame seeds provide more calcium than 250 ml of milk.
Sesame is rich in phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, manganese, copper, iron and vitamins B1, B2, B6 & B3.
Perfumes that contain sesame
Here is the list of sesame-based fragrances:
- Ambre Narguilé and Épices Marine by Hermès
- Pour La Fin Du Monde by État Libre d’Orange
- Florabellio by Diptyque
- Night Call by Ex Nihilo
- Ange Noir by Givenchy
- Désert suave by Liquides Imaginaires
- Haramens by Pierre Guillaume
- Kedu by Memo
- Jade Leaf Tea by Joe Malone
- Pavillon Rouge by Jovoy
- Aqua Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo
- Dolce Flore by Incalmo
- Trouble-Fête by Givenchy
- Osiris by Sylvaine Delacourte Paris
Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.