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Rosewood

This article could not have been written without the participation of an extraordinary and passionate woman who is at the head of a high quality raw materials company, Frédérique Remy, the founder of Floral Concept.

I smelled rosewood at the last Salon des Matières Premières and I was surprised to see it reappear as it has been decried in the past and was also banned for many years. 

I would like to thank Frédérique for helping me understand why and how this beautiful raw material is once again available in the perfumer's organ. 

I think that the rosewood essence will be mentioned again in some fragrance launches.

 

The History of Rosewood or Pau Rosa

It is a tree from 20 to 40 metres high. It is pink, reddish with yellow flowers, which has the particularity of reproducing with difficulty.

In the past, the essence of rosewood came exclusively from Brazil, from the Amazonian forest. This tree was discovered by botanists in 1925. 

The Robin Hood Association has made a name for itself in contesting the use of tropical woods and in the preservation of tropical forests. This association has been fighting since 1995 to get the major perfume houses to stop using this precious wood in perfumes.

Brazil banned the cutting of rosewood and the distillation of the essence almost overnight. It has been classified on the red list of endangered species, the aim being to limit deforestation.

The largest quantity cut was intended for export of the wood to China, mainly for the manufacture of furniture. It was a highly prized wood because it was precious. The other part was intended to be distilled for the perfume and cosmetics industry.

It was therefore necessary to find other solutions to replace the rosewood. 

For a long time, rosewood was recreated thanks to a natural linalool core, a scent close to lavender. It was also created thanks to synthesis by combining linalool with other raw materials with a high linalool content, but the result was not comparable to the scent to natural rosewood. 

 

 

The new Rosewood is born, beautiful and ethical

Since 2016 Frédérique Remy from the company Floral Concept, has been working with rosewood in the heart of the Amazon with Peruvian communities that have no other wealth than this wood.

Peru authorises the export of rosewood but only with a CITES* permit because it is a protected species.
CITES: Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.

This means that the trees, as well as the plots on which they grow, are listed. The woods are numbered and entered in a register.

Each tree can only be cut down from a certain age, minimum 20 cm in diameter. For each tree cut down, at least two trees must be replanted.

This community therefore organised a plant nursery and learned how to make shoots in order to replant them. They set up a distillery and produce the beautiful essence of rosewood that the Floral Concept company sells to the fragrance industry. Perfumers who had known rosewood before are all happy to be able to use it again.

Floral Concept worked with the perfumers for a few months to develop the quality they thought was optimal. All parts of the tree are distilled (trunk, roots, branches, twigs) and they all have different scents.

Therefore a skilful balance should be found between the parts of the rosewood tree to obtain the scent sought after by perfumers.

Cosmetics and aromatherapy do not necessarily seek the same olfactory qualities as fine perfumery, as they are only interested in the properties of the plant. In fact, this rosewood essence has properties that are important for aromatherapy and cosmetics: antiseptic, antiviral, anti-pain, antifungal, antiparasitic, anti-ageing, regenerating, firming, anti-stretch marks. Finally, its gentle fragrance is soothing and helps to calm anxiety.

 

Transporting Rosewood to France

The great difficulty in obtaining this species of rosewood is the time it takes to bring the rosewood to the Floral Concept factory.

The process is very long:

  • The producer has to apply for a CITES Export Certificate for each shipment, which can take 1 to 2 months, as it is necessary to go to the capital to obtain the authorisation, very far from the place of production.
  • A CITES Import Certificate must be requested.
  • French authorities have 4 weeks to respond.
  • As soon as this certificate is obtained, the company Floral Concept sends a copy to Peru.
  • The producer can then ship the rosewood species.
  • The producer must cross the jungle all the way to the airport so that the barrel of rosewood essential oil can be flown in.
  • This process can take 3 to 4 months before the product is received.

This makes it a very rare and luxurious product. Perfumery customers or creative companies appreciate the fact that this wood benefits from an ethical and sustainable source. In addition, this rosewood essence provides a livelihood for families in Peru, while preserving biodiversity. 

 

Origin of Rosewood

Botanical family Rosewood Peru: Aniba rosaeodora var. amazonica

It is an endemic species of the Amazonian forest. Rosewood belongs to the Lauraceae family and owes its name to the pinkish colour of its wood and its smell. Its wood is shredded and steam distilled.

The origin of the product is Peru. In collaboration with a community of local producers, the rosewood comes from a sustainable and ethical supply. It is protected and classified in Appendix II of CITES.

 

Olfactory description of Rosewood

It is a scent typified by the presence of linalool, that constitutes up to 92% of its essential oil. Rosewood essence is distinguished by a complex olfactory profile of great finesse. It blends citrus, grapefruit and petitgrain notes, an essence derived from the leaves of the bitter orange tree. It is also characterised by pinkish, spicy, peppery floral notes and finally by woody facets with inflections of cedar wood. It evolves over the hours towards a moist earthy and mineral effect. Its soft and supple note brings naturalness and harmony to floral bouquets.

 

Perfumes containing Rosewood

Here is a list of perfumes containing rosewood. It is difficult to know if these different perfumes contain natural rosewood or if they contain reconstitutions. 

  • H24 Hermès
  • Oud Rosewood Christian Dior
  • Jicky Guerlain
  • Cristalle Chanel
  • Diorissimo Christian Dior
  • Le Dix Balenciaga 
  • Emeraude Coty
  • Bois noir Chanel

 

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.