Perfume layering: what is it all about?
In this article, Sylvaine Delacourte will tell you everything you need to know about the principle of perfume layering, which is the combination of fragrances
The principle of layering in perfumery
The principle of layering consists of superimposing and combining several fragrances in order to have a personalised fragrance. It's an assembly of scents that creates a unique fragrance. To satisfy the desire to have a custom-made perfume (cf. The creation of a bespoke perfume) without having to pay the price that goes with this exceptional service.
This demand comes mainly from perfume lovers. In the West, perfumers and purists are rather opposed to this practice, indeed it is understandable that a perfumer who takes one to two years or even more to perfect a successful artistic composition, does not want to see his creation mixed with a second one.
The trend of layering was imposed under the influence of a common practice coming from the Middle East where men and women have been mixing fragrances for a very long time.
Different layering styles
We also know the layering of beauty products, a very precise practice mainly coming from Japan and Korea. Like a thousand leaves, it consists of a superimposition of several forms of skincare such as gel, emulsion, serum, cream.
The classical layering in perfumery consists in superimposing body milk or body cream, talcum powder, shower gel, deodorant and then extract at the places of pulsation (scent for yourself) and then eau de toilette or eau de parfum on the clothes for the sillage (scent for others). This layering technique allows you to intensify the hold and the sillage (cf. Learning to perfume yourself).
Layering in the Middle East
The layering practice is very common in the Middle East. It is a ritual where women first apply a musk-based cream (cf. Musk facet) on the skin, then scent their clothes and skin with their mixture, which is each time personalised. Called the bakhour, cassolettes with oud wood and different resins that burn on coals, then an oud-based perfume is applied and finally, over all these fragrances, a western perfume.
Men in the Middle East are not afraid to use very feminine Western fragrances. For them, it is out of the question to wear a single fragrance, they really want to wear a unique and mysterious scent. The preferred raw materials in the Middle East are oud wood, leather notes, saffron and rose.
Some advice on olfactory layering
You have to be careful and try several combinations because if the desire to play with perfumes is strong, we can quickly create a chaotic scent. It can be like mixing a piece of Brahms with a piece of Mozart.
You have to experiment with several superimpositions, use your intuition knowing that a beautiful perfume must correspond to your olfactory heritage.
A few layering ideas to avoid the worst
- You can combine a vanilla-scented fragrance with a spicy one (cf. Spicy facet, Gourmand facet).
- Fruity fragrances blend well with floral fragrances. Opposites sometimes attract (cf. Floral facet).
- You can accentuate a trait in the same olfactory family, add almost pure vanilla to an oriental scent that is already often vanilla.
- Strengthen the character with an oriental fragrance, just add a patchouli note or a fragrance based on oud. This will make the oud note more subtle.
- You can lighten a dense and compact perfume with a very fresh eau de Cologne.
- Fresh citrus notes go well with gourmand notes (cf. Citrus facet).
- The floral notes generally blend well with each other.
- You can consult the article creating your own perfume, in order to have other proposals (cf. Make your own perfume, Test a perfume).
Rules to be respected for the layering
A first rule is to apply the strongest or headiest fragrance first and then the lightest. This will prevent the stronger scent from overpowering the lighter one.
Avoid mixing two fragrances with very strong personalities or too faceted and complex.
Limit yourself to two fragrances to be superimposed.
Good layering surprises
I smelled unexpected yet successful blends like a Mitsouko with Double Vanilla by Guerlain. Ideal man with Néroli Outre Noir, always with Guerlain.
Conclusion on layering
For Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances, I would advise to lighten a heady perfume with a very fresh and gentle breath of Dovana from the Musk Collection.
Why not try the fresh, citrusy and green Oranzo with Smeraldo which itself is green and musky?
It up to you to try different combinations, according to your instinct, according to your olfactory heritage. Perhaps you will have some examples of successful layering to share with us.
Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.