Neroli in perfumery
Neroli is the name of the essential oil or essence obtained by steam distillation from the orange blossom harvested from the bitter orange tree.
History of neroli
The name Neroli refers to Marie de Trémoille-Noirmoutiers, wife of Orsini, Duchess of Bracciano, Princess of Chalais and Neroli, who fell in love with orange blossom and more specifically with its freshness. Hence the association of her nickname, the Princess of La Nerola, with her favourite product, Neroli.
This Italian princess was crazy about neroli, and perfumed her bath, her clothes, her gloves and her palace with this precious essence.
Origin of neroli
Neroli comes from the tree called bigaradier. This tree is very inspiring, all its parts and therefore all its facets can be used in perfumery.
Its flower offers 3 products: neroli, orange blossom water and orange blossom absolute. Petitgrain is the product of the distillation of the twigs and leaves. The essence of bitter orange comes from the zest of the bitter orange.
Countries of origin of neroli: Italy, Spain, Morocco, Tunisia.
Bigaradier products
The bigaradier tree (Citrus aurantium) is highly valued by perfumers for its versatility and richness of scent.
In addition to neroli oil (fresh, airy, lavender and floral) and petitgrain oil (green, lavender and vegetable), the bigaradier tree is also used to obtain bitter orange essential oil, the orange’s skin is treated by cold expression.
It also produces the richest and most rounded product, which is orange blossom absolute. Most often used as a heart note, orange blossom absolute accentuates the floral aspect of a composition.
Usually, white flowers cannot withstand steam distillation. The only exception is the orange blossom, which can be distilled to produce neroli oil or treated by extraction with volatile solvents to obtain orange blossom absolute.
The essence of petitgrain is made by distillation of the branches and leaves. Petitgrain is used in eaux de Colognes, eaux fraîches, and mixed and masculin fragrances.
There is also a little-known product, eau de Brout, which is the water recovered from the distillation of petitgrain. Its scent has floral notes with slight animal overtones. There is also Brout water absolute.
Focus on neroli
Neroli is, along with petitgrain, one of the freshest of the orange blossom notes.
It is most often associated with citrus fragrances and eaux de Colognes. It is common to find it in the top notes of fresh floral scents. It acts as a counterpoint to the absolute.
Neroli fragrance
Neroli is fresh, floral, sparkling and has a lavender and green facet. It also brings a lot of tenderness to a composition as it echoes many perfumed products or eaux de toilette for babies and children.
Price of neroli
To obtain one litre of orange blossom water, you need one kilo of flowers. For one kilo of neroli, you need a ton, which means that the price is very high.
Benefits of orange blossom
Thanks to its recognized benefits in aromatherapy, orange blossom relaxes, reassures and awakens positive thoughts.
Perfumes containing neroli
Here is a list of some creations composed of neroli, often accompanied by orange blossom: Oranzo, the richest in neroli, Osiris, Ozkan, Olyssia and Oscarine from the Orange Blossom Collection by Sylvaine Delacourte Paris.
- Fleurs de citronnier by Serge Lutens
- Fleur d’oranger by Serge Lutens
- Histoire d’Oranger by L’Artisan Parfumeur
- La Chasse aux Papillons by L’Artisan Parfumeur
- Néroli by Annick Goutal
- L’Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal
- Cologne by Thierry Mugler
- Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by Prada
- Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford
- Cologne Bigarade by Frédéric Malle
- Néroli 3 by Le Labo
- Eau d’Orange Verte by Hermès
- Fleur d’Oranger by Molinard
Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.