Resins and balsamic notes
Myrrh
Greek mythology maintains the myth of the transformation of Myrrha, the incestuous one, into a myrrh tree before giving birth to Adonis.
Several species of Commophora from Arabia and Abyssinia, all of which are small, are the source of Myrrh with a prodigious past. There are over 100 species of Commiphora. The three species we have mentioned (Commiphora Myrrha Nees, Commiphora Abyssinica, Commiphora Schimperi) are the ones that contribute most to the production of oleo-gum-resin in the form of natural exudations, real tears, whose colour fluctuates from light yellow to quite dark red. These fragile, almost friable, shiny tears give off a strong aromatic odour.
Myrrh consists of 60% gum, 30% resin and essence, plus a bitter principle.
Myrrh, considered the most exquisite and precious perfume, was used throughout antiquity for the worship of the gods. In turn, the Magi associated it with incense.
But beyond these sacred uses, myrrh has had and still has an important use in perfumery. Perfumers use myrrh essence obtained by steam distillation of the gum harvested from the tree. It has an intense, rising balsamic odour: liquorice, woody, almost fruity and incense facets.
Incense
Incense is a gum just like myrrh. It is collected on incense trees. Indeed, the notion of incense tree has a collective meaning. It includes a number of species of Boswellia from various countries: Somalia, Yemen, Sudan, Ethiopia and India.
The most frequently used tree is Boswellia carteri Roxb. These are all shrubs of 4 to 5 metres in height from the mountains of the East Maya and Africa. Incense trees have a trunk and twigs with grey bark that can be easily peeled off.
In perfumery, the gum collected after cutting the trunk of the tree is steam distilled to obtain the essence. This essence is a very powerful dark aromatic base note with a camphorated, resinous, smoky effect.
The uses of incense over the centuries have always corresponded to a certain ceremonial: worship of the gods, remedies or perfumes. The ancient Egyptians used it to treat themselves, to embalm their deaths and especially for fumigation in places of worship. Religions have never stopped using it. Oriental extremes devote almost sacred attention to it in their private lives.
Styrax
Like the balsams of Peru, Tolu, benzoin, myrrh and incense, styrax balsam is secreted in the bark of two species of trees called liquidambar, which are found in Syria, Asia Minor and South America.
Liquid styrax is composed of a small proportion of resin, a benzine-like essence called styrol, cinnamic acid and styracine.
Styrax oil is obtained by distillation of the balsam. It has a strong vanilla, balsamic, floral, animal, leathery and tarry odour.
Benzoin
- Siam
- Sumatra
Benzoin is a balsam that comes naturally or by incision from the trunk of a tree of the Styraceae family: styrax benzoin. It comes to us from Siam and Sumatra. This exudation is actually a pathological reaction of the tree. It is also called gum or benzoin tear. It is white in colour when liquid and turns yellow as it dries. When harvested, it is already semi-solid.
Siamese benzoin is the most sought after variety by perfumers. It is the rarest and therefore the most expensive. It has a very strong vanilla flavour.
Sumatra benzoin is made up of two varieties: amygdaloid benzoin, which is the official benzoin used for fumigation or dyeing, and common benzoin, which is only used for extracting benzoic acid.
Tears of benzoin develop a very sweet fragrance, much appreciated in Buddhist temples where it is used as our incense.
Indeed, benzoin has long been regarded as a variety of incense or myrrh and as a precious substance. It also played a role in the treatment of lung and skin diseases.
In perfumery, the gum is treated by extraction with volatile solvents to obtain benzoin absolute.
Olfactory description: sweet vanilla, almond, toasted coffee, honeyed, floral (carnation), rich, liquorish, medicinal.
Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.