The Olfactory Pashminas

Musks have a wide olfactory variety, sometimes fruity, clean, or woody, but they all have a softness in common, that is why Sylvaine Delacourte calls them olfactory pashminas because they bring both comfort and lightness.

They have a particular strength, but it is difficult to give them projection and to have them diffused. The challenge was thus to give them a strong presence, a different personality and of course a trail.

Musk
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Dovana

Tender Musk
Fresh - Light - Powdery

This perfume is infused the fragrance of my childhood soap. The color white describes it well, being a symbol of purity and freshness.

Inspiration

The softness of a petal, as light as a floating bubble.

This perfume is infused the fragrance of my childhood soap. The color white describes it well, being a symbol of purity and freshness.

Heliotrope
Heliotrope
Iris
Iris
Italie
Santal
Sandalwood
Rose
Rose
Mandarine
Mandarin
Neroli
Neroli
Ambrette
Ambrette
Equateur
Muscs blancs
Musk
Vanille
Vanilla
Madagascar

Raw Material n°1

Heliotrope

It is a very fragile blue flower with rather thick petals that looks like a violet. Its smell is delicious, a mix between almond and vanilla. It has a very addictive smell and brings out all other powdery notes in light: iris, mimosa, violet.

Raw Material n°2

Iris

In Italy, the Iris Pallida, with its delicate powdery perfume, grows on rugged, rocky terrain with little sunlight, which means it cannot be cultivated mechanically. It takes six years for it to be ready, three years of growing, plus three years of drying. This extremely long process is why it is so expensive: Iris Pallida is one of the most expensive, majestic raw materials used in perfumes.

Raw Material n°3

Sandalwood

Sandalwood is native to India and Indonesia. It is woody, creamy, velvety, powdery, balsamic, milky, soft, warm, sensual, a little leathery, slightly wild ... It is distinct of having little volatility, so therefore not too strong of a smell. On the other hand, it has incredible tenacity.

Raw Material n°4

Rose

In perfumery, two botanical varieties of the rose can be used: Centifolia rose and Rose Damascena. Centifolia rose in Grasse, France and Damascena rose in Morocco, Bulgaria and Turkey. To the nose, the Centifolia rose has a more honeyed and Oriental smell to it than the Damascena rose, which is slightly fresher, fruitier and livelier.

Raw Material n°5

Mandarin

La mandarine est native de Chine, on la trouve dans le bassin méditerranéen (Espagne et Italie). Frais, doux, vif, pétillant, acidulé, un peu sucré, joyeux, c’est certainement l'agrume le plus solaire et radiant de tous.

Raw Material n°6

Neroli

The essence of neroli is fresh, airy, lavender, a little marshmallow, slightly reminiscent of hesperidium, a sweet and fresh floral smell.

Raw Material n°7

Ambrette

A cousin of the hibiscus, reaching up to 3.5m in height, the ambrette is a herbaceous plant with large yellow flowers. It is used in perfumes for its seeds which give off a very pleasant fragrance which is somewhere between amber and musk. Ambrette comes from Ecuador. The seeds are harvested by hand in June and July.

Raw Material n°8

Musk

These new musks, also called white musks or musky notes have paved the way for a new style of perfume composition. They bring comfort, tenacity but above all are very enticing and regressive, reminiscent of the smell of a new-born baby.

Raw Material n°9

Vanilla

In its natural state, the vanilla used in perfumes is a vine plant that grows in tropical forests, part of the orchid family. Vanilla grows as long green pods, which are wrapped in a cloth and heated for around 9 months, fermented, dried and finally graded, before the vanilla absolute can be extracted. Its complex perfume is not sweet and had many facets, leathery, woody and balmy.

Florentina

Powdery Musk
Powdery - Enveloping - Soft

With Florentina I created an endearing feeling, extremely tender but also sparking the memory of my childhood talcum powder.

Inspiration

Florentina brings together all of my favorite raw material obsessions. Almond first, for its rich yet fresh side, then the majestic powdery scent of irises from Florence and heliotrope touched with hints of vanilla. This beautiful blend is punctuated with white musk, and finally carnations reveal their spicy notes. The root of vetiver from Haiti gives a woody vibe to this melody in blue.

With Florentina I created an endearing feeling, extremely tender but also sparking the memory of my childhood talcum powder.

Benjoin
Benzoin
Violette
Violet
Oeillet
Carnation
Amande
Bitter almond
France
Fleur oranger
Orange blossom
Italie
Lavande
Lavender
Vetiver
Vetiver
Haiti
Bergamote
Bergamot
Iris
Iris
Italie

Raw Material n°1

Benzoin

A true luxury of Laos, benzoin is a balsamic resin from the regions of Sumatra and Siam. There are different vanilla scents coming from benzoin: sweet, balsamic, warm, almond, resinous, a little wild, oriental, powdery, chocolatey, suave, sensual, slightly caramelised, honeyed and a little woody.

Raw Material n°2

Violet

This beautiful flower does not give off any fragrance, only the leaves provide a natural fragrance, with it being a very intense green smell, which is very far from the smell of the flower. Its scent is soft, powdery, cosmetic, and reminiscent of violet sweets of yesteryear.

Raw Material n°3

Carnation

The carnation flower provides an essential oil not often used in perfumery, because its smell is disappointing. The desired smell is that of the carnation mint, so it is a harmony used in perfumery with a blend of a rose and mixture of spices, the dominant spice being a clove.

Raw Material n°4

Bitter almond

Originally from Asia Minor, the almond tree spread throughout Spain, France and Italy. Bitter almond is the seed contained within the fruit stone. The essence obtained by distilling these seeds in a natural product. It has a rich fragrance without being sweet. Bitter almond rises, it escapes from the first notes of the perfume.

Raw Material n°5

Orange blossom

The bitter orange is a precious tree, it grows five to ten metres tall. Its five petal flowers are white are pink and hand harvested in April. We get two very different products from these flowers: orange blossom absolute through extraction using solvents and Neroli essence through distillation. Orange blossom absolute is very rich and acts at the heart of a perfume, giving it an addictive, sensual, animalistic tones.

Raw Material n°6

Lavender

Originally from the Mediterranean basin, it is still found in southern European countries such as Spain and Italy, but it is the south of France which remains the main producer. Aromatic, herbaceous, camphoric, a feel of bergamot, dry, a little floral, woody tones, powerful, a lavender smell that reminds you of gardens, summer, and the south.

Raw Material n°7

Vetiver

This herbaceous plant grows one to two metres tall and has large green stalks whose roots grow vertically down for two to three metres. The longer these roots stay in the earth, the stronger the vetiver essence and they better the quality (it takes around 2 to 3 years). The characteristic of Haitian Vetiver is that it is very fresh and vibrant but also has a slightly smokey warm side.

Raw Material n°8

Bergamot

Bergamot is a citrus fruit that resembles a small orange with greenish flesh and yellow skin when ripe. It is now mainly grown in Italy. Fresh, lively, bubbly, zesty, fruity, bitter, Bergamot also has the distinction of having a floral and slight lavender smell.

Raw Material n°9

Iris

In Italy, the Iris Pallida, with its delicate powdery perfume, grows on rugged, rocky terrain with little sunlight, which means it cannot be cultivated mechanically. It takes six years for it to be ready, three years of growing, plus three years of drying. This extremely long process is why it is so expensive: Iris Pallida is one of the most expensive, majestic raw materials used in perfumes.

Smeraldo

Green Musk
Refreshing - Tonic - Green

I created a perfume that is both detoxifying and purifying, like fresh air in the morning. Designed as a shock between two worlds: blending the lively brightness of plants with the softness of musk.

Inspiration

Smeraldo, which means emerald in Italian has a spontaneous character. If Smeraldo were a colour it would be green.

I created a perfume that is both detoxifying and purifying, like fresh air in the morning. Designed as a shock between two worlds: blending the lively brightness of plants with the softness of musk.

Rose
Rose
Cedre feuille
Leaf cedar
Angelique
Angelica
France
Yuzu
Yuzu
Aubepine
Hawthorn
Poire
Pear
Vetiver
Vetiver
Haiti
Lentisque
Mastic tree
Maroc
Citron vert
Lime

Raw Material n°1

Rose

In perfumery, two botanical varieties of the rose can be used: Centifolia rose and Rose Damascena. Centifolia rose in Grasse, France and Damascena rose in Morocco, Bulgaria and Turkey. To the nose, the Centifolia rose has a more honeyed and Oriental smell to it than the Damascena rose, which is slightly fresher, fruitier and livelier.

Raw Material n°2

Leaf cedar

The essential oil from a cedar leaf comes from the leaves and twigs of Western cedar, also called White Cedar or the Tree of Life. Its use in perfumery makes it possible to give some support and spark with its herbaceous and woody aromas.

Raw Material n°3

Angelica

Angelica is a plant with a thick, hollow, grooved stem which originates from Europe and North Asia. The two parts of angelica, the seed and the root, produce very difference fragrances, they can be treated using steam distillation. In composing Smeraldo, the essential oil is obtained through hydrodistillation of the roots: The fragrance is very green, raw, aromatic, almost an adelhyde (an effect of steam and hot iron)

Raw Material n°4

Yuzu

Yuzu is a very luxurious and refined Japanese citrus that gives very little juice. It is often found in food in Japan: sushi, drinks ... Its production is very limited! It is rare to have it naturally in a perfume. Its scent is very multi-faceted and very tangerine, but you can also smell a little lemon, orange, and grapefruit.

Raw Material n°5

Hawthorn

Hawthorn is a small thorny and wild shrub. It brings a velvety floral note to scented creations with hints of green, mimosa, balsamic and almond. It is not natural, but instead it is a molecule called anisaldehyde, first discovered in 1887.

Raw Material n°6

Pear

The pear, along with the apple, is one of the few fruity raw materials that are 'natural', as the other fruits do not give off a smell, and must therefore be reproduced synthetically. Its scent is fresh, waterlogged, delicate, and fruity without being sweet.

Raw Material n°7

Vetiver

This herbaceous plant grows one to two metres tall and has large green stalks whose roots grow vertically down for two to three metres. The longer these roots stay in the earth, the stronger the vetiver essence and they better the quality (it takes around 2 to 3 years). The characteristic of Haitian Vetiver is that it is very fresh and vibrant but also has a slightly smokey warm side.

Raw Material n°8

Mastic tree

This bush grows on scrub lands in the Mediterranean and particularly in Morocco and Corsica. The Mastic tree is a shrub which grows around three metres high and has a reddish-brown bark. Its leaves are elongated and its green flowers produce little fruit which changes from red to black. Its essence is highly aromatic and gives the fragrance a fresh aspect, very green, woody and slightly spiced.

Raw Material n°9

Lime

Limes come from the lime tree, with the main producers being Mexico, Brazil, Peru and Haiti. Limes are small fruit, whose skin and flesh are green, with an oval or round shape. Their scent is green, like coca-cola, with a smell that is a bit sweet, acidic, fresh, and tonic.

Lilylang

Sunny Musk
Sunny - Radiating - Exotic

It reminds me of my holidays on the island of La Reunion where I discovered ylang-ylang, the perfect sunny flower. I crafted a fragrance that is a sun heated blend of skin and sand.

Inspiration

Lilylang has a glowing character which doesn't hide its more cosy and musky side. If Lilylang were a colour it would be yellow.

It reminds me of my holidays on the island of La Reunion where I discovered ylang-ylang, the perfect sunny flower. I crafted a fragrance that is a sun heated blend of skin and sand.

Muscs blancs
Musk
Mandarine
Mandarin
Ylang ylang
Ylang-Ylang
Madagascar
Jasmin
Jasmine
Egypte
Tubereuse
Tuberose
Limette
Lime
Citron vert
Lime
Baies roses
Baie Rose
Reunion
Bergamote
Bergamot

Raw Material n°1

Musk

These new musks, also called white musks or musky notes have paved the way for a new style of perfume composition. They bring comfort, tenacity but above all are very enticing and regressive, reminiscent of the smell of a new-born baby.

Raw Material n°2

Mandarin

La mandarine est native de Chine, on la trouve dans le bassin méditerranéen (Espagne et Italie). Frais, doux, vif, pétillant, acidulé, un peu sucré, joyeux, c’est certainement l'agrume le plus solaire et radiant de tous.

Raw Material n°3

Ylang-Ylang

Ylang-Ylang means “flower of flowers” in Malaysian. Its perfume is reminiscent of sunshine: exotic and creamy. The flowers of this tropical tree start to grow after two years, they start out green and then become yellow as they ripen. It takes five kilos of fresh flowers (the average yearly produce of one tree) to obtain 100 grams of essential oil through slow distillation (12 to 20 hours).

Raw Material n°4

Jasmine

There are two varieties of jasmine: Grandiflorum and Sambac. In this formula, the opulent, sensual, addictive and creamy Grandiflorum has been used It was first discovered in Egypt and its name comes from the Persian term 'Yasmin' which means perfumed flower. The intense fragrance of this little white flower, which is harvested by hand at dawn, has perfumed the gardens of numerous emperors and sultans.

Raw Material n°5

Tuberose

In India, it is harvested every morning from May to December. In "Hindi" the tuberose is nicknamed "night perfume". It is a generous, extroverted flower, between a nectar and poisonous perfume. It is domineering, voluptuous, fruity, narcotic, suave, and wild. It reminds you of white chocolate, with hints of coconut and spices.

Raw Material n°6

Lime

Limes come from the lime tree, with the main producers being Mexico, Brazil, Peru and Haiti. Limes are small fruit, whose skin and flesh are green, with an oval or round shape. Their scent is green, like coca-cola, with a smell that is a bit sweet, acidic, fresh, and tonic.

Raw Material n°7

Lime

Limes come from the lime tree, with the main producers being Mexico, Brazil, Peru and Haiti. Limes are small fruit, whose skin and flesh are green, with an oval or round shape. Their scent is green, like coca-cola, with a smell that is a bit sweet, acidic, fresh, and tonic.

Raw Material n°8

Baie Rose

Also known as 'pink pepper', this essence adds both a vivacious freshness and a little fizz of citrus to the perfume, slightly green, soft and peppery. It comes from a small mastic tree originating from Peru, which grows on the Islands of La Reunion and Mauritius. It bears bunches of scarlet red berries which are only ever harvested by hand.

Raw Material n°9

Bergamot

Bergamot is a citrus fruit that resembles a small orange with greenish flesh and yellow skin when ripe. It is now mainly grown in Italy. Fresh, lively, bubbly, zesty, fruity, bitter, Bergamot also has the distinction of having a floral and slight lavender smell.

Helicriss

Spicy Musk
Mysterious - Racy - Full Bodied

If Helicriss were a colour it would be grey. A memory of my holidays in Corsica, it makes me think of the very distinctive fragrance of the scrub lands, a warm and welcoming scent.

Inspiration

Helicriss, a hero whose name comes from Helichryse - the botanical name for the immortellle flower. A sophisticated sent full of strength and charisma.

If Helicriss were a colour it would be grey. A memory of my holidays in Corsica, it makes me think of the very distinctive fragrance of the scrub lands, a warm and welcoming scent.

Immortelle
Everlasting flower
Espagne
Pamplemousse
Grapefruit
Feve tonka
Tonka Bean
Citron
Lemon
Romarin
Rosemary
Cannelle
Cinnamon
Patchouli
Patchouli
Indonesie
Bergamote
Bergamot
Encens resinoide
Frankincense resinoid
Somalie

Raw Material n°1

Everlasting flower

This bush with off-white branches grows in the arid scrub lands of Corsica and Spain. The golden yellow flowers grow in florets and flower in the summer. The immortelle flower, whose Latin name Helichryse means golden sun, is know for its warm, sunny fragrance, spiced with coffee accents. It is used to make dried bouquets which can fragrance a room over a long period of time, which is where the name immortelle or everlasting comes from.

Raw Material n°2

Grapefruit

Grapefruit is native to Florida and Brazil. The essential oil extracted from its bark has hints of hesperidium, green, bitter and sulfuric smell. It is used among others with citrus tones, with it providing a spicy freshness.

Raw Material n°3

Tonka Bean

The absolute Tonka bean is obtained by extracting the seed from a tree that grows in Brazil. It is composed largely of coumarone, which has a powdery, almond, and hay smell. But the absolute is more complex, tobacco, grilled, wild with a vanilla pod and cigar look.

Raw Material n°4

Lemon

Lemon gets its name from the italian word “limone”. It comes from the lemon tree, small tree native of Asia and especially China. Its smell is fresh, citrus, sour, fusing, and tonic.

Raw Material n°5

Rosemary

Native to the Mediterranean, rosemary is grown in France, Spain, Morocco and Italy. It is very easy to identify, its small pointed leaves, regularly used in cooking, camphoric smell and has a waft of lavender, which also makes you think of incense. The rosemary flower is aromatic, fresh, herbaceous, camphorated, a little wild, and bitter.

Raw Material n°6

Cinnamon

Cinnamon from Sri Lanka is the most popular variety because of its sweet and sugary side. Cinnamon gives a spicy, warm, balsamic, woody, sweet/vanilla smell, powerful, like a clove, lively, sensual, spicy/peppery, sweet and powdery. It makes you think of spicy Christmas tea!

Raw Material n°7

Patchouli

This great plant from South-East Asia has green leaves, much like mint, and grows in tropical regions. The fresh leaf has no smell at all, the fragrance is only released when it is dried. Its name first appeared in England at the beginning of the 19th century, it comes from a Tamil world which associates the terms patch (green) and Ilai (leaf). Its fragrance is woody, very deep, mysterious and exotic.

Raw Material n°8

Bergamot

Bergamot is a citrus fruit that resembles a small orange with greenish flesh and yellow skin when ripe. It is now mainly grown in Italy. Fresh, lively, bubbly, zesty, fruity, bitter, Bergamot also has the distinction of having a floral and slight lavender smell.

Raw Material n°9

Frankincense resinoid

Found growing wild in the Yemen and Somalia, frankincense trees can reach five to six metres tall and are fond of the chalky, mountainous regions at an altitude of between 1000 and 1800 metres. Only the male tree produces resin. To obtain the best resin, you should collect it in October after having made cuts into the tree in the summer. The resin is then treated using solvents to obtain a resinoid.

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